Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
This is a pair of tongs that I made for holding a railroad Spike by the head. It is a handy tool when making R/R Spike Knives. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
The split on the top jaw grabs the rounded part of head securely so that you can hold on to the thing. The bottom jaw has notch formed in it to grtab the bottom of the head, and this is so you can hold the spike securely. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
This is another special pair of tongs. These are to start the end of a tapered end scroll. Making the turn on the end of a scroll has always been a problem for me doing it on the horn of the anvil to keep them consistent. I made these tongs to make the first 120 degrees of the scroll and I make my gigs to fit that radius. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
Just grab the thin end when it is hot and rotate back towards you. This is just done on the anvil You are holding the cool end of the piece with a glove on your hand or another pair of tongs. This starts the scroll. These I made out of a piece of road grater bladeThey are very strong and work real well. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
This is a top and bottom fullering tool that I saw Rob Gunter using a couple of years ago. They are just handier than a pocket on shirt. They are useful for lots of things. I have three sizes of these 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" It hs real handy for doing pipe forging and any type of necking down of larger pieces to smaller dimensions ie the various sizes, like making apples, chillie peppers, ringing bells out of pieces of pipe, etc. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
I grind a 2" radius (4" diameter) about 1/4' deep on top and bottom and keep a good radius on the edges. Then I have another place where I've taken a 1/2" rotary file on my die grinder so I have a smaller radius that is also about 1/2" deep. Real Handy tool. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
This is how I make the tool to put the veins on my leaves. That second picture is supposed to show a hot cutter. |
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Bill-Epps : |
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Paw-Paw : |
Bill what did you use to make the veining tool? Hot rolled Mild Steel and super quench? | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
The square shank is the size that fits my hardy hold which happens to be 1". I split it down with a hot cutter about 1/2" deep,spread it out, flatten it down in the hardy hole. Yes, I used hot rolled steel and super quenched it. All you are ever hitting in it is hot iron, and it is soft. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
I leave a crown in the center, and use a hot cutter to cut my pattern in, and quench in super quench. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
This is another handy tool make from a large ball bearing race.I cut it in 1/2 and cut the 1/ in 1/2 so I have two quarters. This is used for making balls. Take these 1/4 sections, heat them up real good and flatten them on the anvil. | |||||
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abear : |
how do you round up the ball in the die?? | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
I use this tool to put a round ball on the end of a rod, This can also be used for making grapes, etc. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
I put the two bearing races inside a piece of hot roll steel that I have bent for a spring. I weld them in place so that when hitting with a hard hammer I don't hit the hardened steel that could chip and hurt someone even me. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
I will try to answer all questions regarding these tools at the end. Got too much to explain right now. Save questions up. OK? | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
Now take a sq. bar by rotating as we hit it, it generates a round ball. I use this tool for putting a round section in a sq. bar, making grapes, acorns, a hot of things. | |||||
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Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
This is a tenont tool. I took 2 pieces of 1" sq. clamped a 1/8 x 1 spacer in between and drilled 3/16 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" and 1/2" holes all the way through the spacer in the center. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
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Bill-Epps : |
The reason I clamp a 1/8 spacer inbetween only the top part of the radius does the work, the sides need to have clearance on them, or they will chew up your tenont. Then I make a spring bar and weld to the ends of them with a tenant to fit in the hardy hole which makes it handier to use. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
I don't harden this tool because it is not necessary. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
I don't harden this tool because it is not necessary. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
These are some of the handy tools I have come up with plus quite a few other, but this is all we will go into tonight. Any QUESTIONS? |
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randy : |
Do you use paper between stock to keep bit in center? | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
no not nessery the 1/8 spacer does that | |||||
Vince-Herod : |
Did you super quench any of the tools besides the veining tool? | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
no just the vaining tool | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
with a hardy shank it will fit the anvil treadel hammer and power hammer | |||||
toby : |
after flatting would you qunch or go ahead and weld it? | |||||
Doug : |
I don't quite understand how that fuller tool works. I the radius (2") you referenced doesn't look like the picture. Guess I'm missing something. | |||||
abear : |
after studing the picture I see that the ball is formed by rotating the stock , correct?? | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
a littel but you need to round the sides so the metal can strech ruther than being pinched | |||||
Jock-D : |
What did you use to weld that piece of ball bearing race with? | |||||
J-J : |
doesn't the 2" radius take care of the outside edges? | |||||
Vince-Herod : |
Do you need to do anything special to weld thr bearing race to the mild steel? | |||||
BillEpps : |
vince preheat rase and let air cool | |||||
