Spork
Demonstration by Bill Epps.
http://www.besmithy.com
May 3, 2000
Bill-Epps : |
Tonights demo is a "Spork" It is a tool that was used by the "mountain men" in the 1800's so that they only had to keep up with one eating utensil. | |||||
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We start with a bar of 1/4" X 1/2" about 4 to 6 inches long. | |||||
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When I am making a fork, any kind of fork, I start by tapering the bar to a point. This makes it easier to split in the center and also starts the taper of my tines of the fork. It is easier to hit the center of a point that it is to gauge the center of a flat bar, at least for me it is. | |||||
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With a hot cutter, I split the forks 1/2 on one side and 1/2 on the other. | |||||
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After I split it with a hot cutter, I take a good heat and clamp it in the vice and use a rounded end punch with about a 3/16" radius on the end and bottom out the end of my sharp cut. This cleans up the bottom of the split and saves a lot of hot rasping and grinding on the finished product. | |||||
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Actually at this point I spread the tines out to where they are almost a "T" and finish drawing them to a sharp point. | |||||
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I want to work the T out good and smooth and round off the sharp edges. | |||||
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I draw the tines out to where they are even (both the same length) this is harder than it looks. | |||||
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Then over the horn we turn them back into the shape of the fork. | |||||
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Using the edge of my hammer as a top fuller and the corner of my anvil as a bottom fuller, we start necking down and rounding up the stock right behind the tines | |||||
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This is done by tilting your hammer and hitting straight down. | |||||
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Then I come over to the horn of the anvil and I close up the forks a little bit more. | |||||
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Now I take a 1/2 round file give a couple of licks just to sharpen the points up and start the spread for the handle just slightly. | |||||
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Before I spread the center, I usually make the spoon on the other end. I need to get my ducks in a row. | |||||
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Now I start the spoon by hammer the corner of the iron back into itself and letting it spread. I do this on both sides. | |||||
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Now, when I hammer it back flat (to 1/4" thickness), It generates a radiused end. Then I use my hammer as a top fuller, the edge of my anvil as a bottom fuller and start thinning and rounding the neck. | |||||
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Then I use the cross-pien on the horn of the anvil to spread out and thin what will become my spoon end. The top of the horn acts as a bottom fuller and the cross-pien acts as a bottom fuller to cause the metal to spread and become wider. | |||||
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Cross pien acts as the "Top" fuller, not the bottom fuller. Sorry. Can't hear to good tonight. Horn acts as the bottom fuller.:) | |||||
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Then using the heel of my hammer across the face of the anvil, I draw the stock down even thinner and out a point similar to a clip on a horse shoe. | |||||
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After we get this form I use the file again just to round it up and smooth it up just a little. All it takes is a couple of licks while it is at a good red heat. | |||||
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After it is cleaned up, we use a ball-pien hammer and a forming block (I bought mine from Kayne & Son) which works very well. (a wooden block will work also). | |||||
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I clamp the forming block in the vice, use a ball-pien hammer to form the spoon. | |||||
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Now at this point, after I have the spoon on one end and the fork on the other, I spread the center with a cross-pien and using the step of the anvil and the cross pien, I concave the handle portion slightly. come over the horn of the anvil and give the handle of the section a little bit of a radius so it fits the hand nicely. | |||||
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and it should look something like this. I am sorry for having this out of order. | |||||
Bill-Epps :02:37:02 |
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I do tilt the spoon and the fork upward just a little bit over the horn of the anvil so that when held in the hand the spoon and the fork are both level. | |||||
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Any questions??? |
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bhtemple : |
whats the overall length when your finished? | |||||
I-Wolf : |
NICE Spork Bill--haven't seen one at any of the Black Powder meeting Ive been to atlest not yet :) | |||||
Pix : |
Question, how do you keep the beans from dripping whilst sticking the meat??? | |||||
Scotsman : |
great job Bill and Sharon! it looks like it would sell great in places where camping and hunting is a big thing! | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
It comes out about 8" long. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
You can only eat w/one end at a time, otherwise you get juice all over your face. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
This is a fun project. Takes about 30 minutes to make one. Sells for about $20. | |||||
bhtemple : |
Could a 4" thick lead block be used as a forming tool for the spoon, or would it melt the lead? | |||||
Leah : |
What size stock would you have to use in order to make it big enough to use when frying fish? | |||||
Pix : |
30 min for who to make???:) | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
Lead doesn't work too well. The hot iron will will cause the lead to splatter and get all over you as well as anyone stand around you. | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
Leah, 1/4" X 3/4" X 8" long. | |||||
Uncle-Goodcrank : |
Well Ill be durned. A spork, huh? Interesting | |||||
Tedd-Harris : |
That helps a lot. I tried a fork once. Lost one of the tines and haven't tried it again. But I will definitely get some made, now. I made a carving knife for my wife, but put the fork on hold until I could get a good one made. | |||||
I-Wolf : |
Uncle-Goodcrank where is Jackson calif near ?,northern calif heren | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
By using that rounded punch, after making your split, will save you a lot of clean up time on your finished fork. This is something I do on BBQ forks as well, just to make the center of the tines smooth. | |||||
Tedd-Harris : |
A fork to go with the knife would make a good Mother's Day present. :) | |||||
Bill-Epps : |
Especially if she is a camper or a buckskinner:) | |||||
Leah : |
When we camp, we either fry fish or barbeque, this would be a good way to cut down on dishes. |
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