Scroll Ends
Demonstration by Bill Epps.
http://www.besmithy.com
January 26, 2000
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Tonights's demo is a "Scroll Ends"! | |||||
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A couple of weeks ago, Jock did a demo on laying out scrolls using a "Grid". Once you have your scroll laid out, what separates QUALITY work from MEIDICOUR is the ends that you put on your scrolls.. | |||||
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We might want to break this up into two sections, because it can get a little bit long. Lets just see how it progresses. | |||||
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We will do a "Snub-End Scroll" first. |
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The snub end is made on square or can be done on flat bar. This is 1/2" square stock. I let 1/2" hang over the edge of the anvil and Set It Down. I make a mark on my hammer head to use as a guage. | |||||
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After setting the stock down over the edge of the anvil, hammer the "Top Corner" back into itself at a 45 deg. angle. Then come back to the face of the anvil and flatten it back out to the stock thickness, in this case 1/2" inch. | |||||
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When you flatten this back out, it generates a "Radius". Now we will have a point and turn it upward and hammer it back into itself. This will start to look like a ball. | |||||
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With a "Curved" hardie you put the radius in the base of the snub-end, and make the first 90 degrees of your scroll. | |||||
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It ends up looking something like this. At this point, it is ready to be reheated and go to the bending jig. | |||||
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Next is a "Fish Tail Scroll |
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A Fish Tail Scroll is just simply a flared out scroll with embossings in the end. | |||||
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We flare the end and using a "Blunt" chisel, forge the lines in the end of the scroll and shape over the horn. | |||||
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Just roll it back into itself and it looks something like this. Now it is ready to go to the scroll jig. | |||||
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Next is a "Flared End Scroll" It is the same as a fish tail without the lines. |
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On this one here, I put a short point on it to start with. | |||||
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Then flatten the end thin, and start curling it back into itself. | |||||
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As you are hammering on the end, raise your other hand up, and this gives you a nice roll, just like rolling up cookie dough. You never want to hit the same place twice, keep your holding hand moving upward as you are hammering on the end. This gives a nice look, at this point it is ready for your jig. | |||||
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The next scroll is a "Penny Scroll" |
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This may seem like "Useless" information, but if you are ever going to make a Gate or a Grille, tables, beds, or just about anything else, you need to know how to offer your client a variety of scroll ends for effect. | |||||
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Penny Scrolls are done on "Flat Bar". | |||||
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This happens to be 1/4" X 3/4" flat bar. Do the same technique on any size, this just happens to be what I am using. Set it up on the edge of the anvil, let about 3/4" hang over, Set it down. (There Again, using a mark on your hammer head as a Guage). | |||||
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Set it down until it has a long narrow taper and comes out to about the same thickness as your material, but continue to flatten it back to keep your width the same. | |||||
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Hammer the top corner back into itself. Lay it down on the face of the anvil, drive that point that appears back into itself also. | |||||
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Flatten it back to the original thickness. This makes a cute little flat ball on the end. Take a good heat, clamp in the vice and twist 90 degrees. | |||||
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Get it good and hot, and hammer the twist out. Put your taper back to the center. | |||||
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Then I come to my "Curved Shaping Hardie" again, and start the scroll end over it. | |||||
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When it looks like this, you are ready to go to your scroll jig. | |||||
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Next we will do a "Rolled End Scroll" |
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Everybody still with me? Got two more types to do. | |||||
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We are going to draw the stock to a long taper, start the end over the edge of the anvil. | |||||
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I need to go back and elaborate on one other drawing before I go on. | |||||
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You start this scroll over the edge of the anvil, turn it back on the face of the anvil and "Roll it Tightly". As you hammer on the end, raise your holding hand up gradually, never hit in the same place twice, this give you a nice tight rolled effect. | |||||
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Now using your hardie again, roll the end down. | |||||
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When it looks about like this, it is ready for your jig. | |||||
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Next we are doing a "Tapered End Scroll". |
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Hammer the edge down to a flat taper, keeping the width the same as the stock size. The taper should be gradual back about 2 1/2 to 3". | |||||
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Start it over the horn, come to the face and roll it back into itself loosely. | |||||
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Another version of this, is to use a pair of "Scroll Starting Tongs" to make that first 90 degrees on the end of the stock. | |||||
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when you get to here, you are ready to go to the jig. | |||||
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These are "Six Basic" scroll ends. There are many, many other variations, but this will get anyone started in the scroll making business. Any questions????:) | |||||
Paw-Paw : |
Bill, show the graphic of the curved hardie again, please. | |||||
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I want to thank my son Jay, whom I believe is present tonight, for doing these and all of my drawings for these demos. Without him I wouldn't be able to do this.:) | |||||
David-Ewing : |
I didn't understand what you ment by using a mark on your hammer as a gauge. ?? | |||||
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Doug : |
Did you make that curved harde? | |||||
poorboy : |
I like a bolt end scroll which is a fishtail with a piece of rod welded ontp the flare before it is rolled. | |||||
FlameJumper : |
Thanks Bill.. Nice job | |||||
Jock-D : |
The bean or snub end scroll is the only time I like to have sharp corners on an anvil. | |||||
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Ian : |
Bill does the edge of the anvil not prohibit the stock from being lowered when using the hardie? | |||||
Steve : |
Bill on the fish tail one how do you make the chisel marks and then curl it over the horn without marring the marks | |||||
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This is just a 1 1/2" square bar drawn to a taper, and curved over gradually with a 1" shank on it. | |||||
Jock-D : |
poorboy, Many of those are forges one-piece, the hard way. . . :) | |||||
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David's question was next. On the side of my hammer, I will make a mark with a piece of soap stone, so I can hold the face of my hammer on the edge of the anvil and have a mark to bring my stock to. | |||||
Jock-D : |
Bill, "Just a 1-1/2 square bar" is saying a LOT for folks with out power! :) Yes we can't thank you enough, Bill, Sharon and Co.! | |||||
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Ian, No, because the curved hardie is about 6" tall. By the time it hits the edge of the anvil, I have already gone as far as I want to anyhow. | |||||
Steve : |
You are a true master smith BIll Thank you for all of your demo's and the effort that you put forth to answer our guestions | |||||
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Steve, you don't hit it very hard, so consequently it really doesn't put hammer marks in it. Your grooves are usually deep enough to keep this from happening. | |||||
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An easy way, if you don't have some type of power hammer, you can always cut it at a torch at a angle, and grind it back smooth and weld a hardie shank on it. | |||||
J-J : |
Bill, I made my scroll starting jig out of a center section of big-rig truck spring and a welded on hardie...saved much drawing down of stock on the taper. | |||||
Bill : |
There is more than one way to do anything. Your way, J-J, sounds like as good an idea as any. I just do it the other way, cause I got a big Power Hammer, He-He.:):)<:P | |||||
Ian : |
JJ, how thick was the spring material? | |||||
J-J : |
about 3/4" to 1" thick at the center point of the spring. | |||||
Allen : |
Bill-- I've been making a scroll end that starts like a fish tail but is rolled tight so the start of the scroll is wider than the rest .... Does this have a specific name ? |
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