skhook12.jpg (3523 bytes)
Twisted Basket Hook
Demonstration By Jim Wilson (Paw-Paw)
March 22, 2000

Paw-Paw :

Before I start the demo, I want to give a couple of credits. The basic idea for this hook came from Torin. Like every cook, I flavored the stew a little bit to make it mine, but the idea started from a picture of a hook that Torin had done. Second, as some of you have notices, things are alittle scrambled tonight. DA BOSS, Jock Dempsey has done a great job getting the stuff sorted out. Plus, Jock did all the sketches that I'm going to use.

Paw-Paw :

Ok, here's where we're going.

skhook11.jpg (5593 bytes)

Paw-Paw :

Start with 4 pieces of 1/4" round Hot Rolled Steel 8 inches long.

skhook01.jpg (3323 bytes)

Paw-Paw :

Bundle them together as shown. You can use tie wire as shown in the graphic, or a hose clamp works well, too.

Paw-Paw :

Either forge weld the ends into a bundle or cheat as I did and use the mig welder.

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Paw-Paw :

Scarf the end of two pieces of 7/16" square HRS. Also scarf the end of the bundle.

skhook06.jpg (2463 bytes)

Paw-Paw :

Jump weld the 5" pieces of 7/16 to the bundle, one on each end.

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Paw-Paw :

Here again, you can use the mig, or do a forge weld.

Paw-Paw :

After you have them welded, clean the welds up with a grinder or a rotary file in the Dremel, or a file.

Paw-Paw :

Use a chisel to extend the line from between the pieces of round stock down onto the flats of the Square Stock. This'll make blending them easier later

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Paw-Paw :

Now cut two inches off the end of the square stock, so that you have a 3 inch piece on each end of the bundle. You can do this before you clean the welds up if you want.

Paw-Paw :

Heat the bundle and twist it TIGHT.

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Paw-Paw :

Now draw out the ends and form the rat tail hook.

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Paw-Paw :

Make sure you have the hooks facing in the SAME direction.

Paw-Paw :

Once the hooks are formed, re-heat the bundle and UNTWIST it till the hooks face in opposit directsion and it looks good to you.

skhook10.jpg (2693 bytes)

Paw-Paw :

And VOILA! One Basket S Hook!

skhook11.jpg (5593 bytes)

Paw-Paw :

I think this next one is a picture of the original.

skhook12.jpg (3523 bytes)

Jock-D :

Jim left out one of my additions.

skhook05.jpg (3370 bytes)

Jock-D :

If you arc weld you need to dress the welds with a chisel, Otherwise you wont get that smooth blended together look.

Paw-Paw :

Now, my wife and I have a deal. I'm design and manufacturing, she's marketing and sales. This S hook winds up 12" lon, plus or minus a bit. Normally, we sell s hooks for $1 an inch. I told her that I wouldn't make it for less than $50. She agreed.

Paw-Paw :


Bryan :

Why weld on a 5" piece and then cut it off to 3"?

Paw-Paw :

After it's made, and coll, you can go back with the dremel and do the clean up. The corners of the square should blend to the center of each round bar.

Ten-Hammers :

You ever heat and forge electric welds Paw Paw?

Paw-Paw :

Bryan, easier to handle.

dimag :

A sharp cold chisel,Jock?

BCBucks :

When you are untwisting do you have to apply pressure from one end?

Paw-Paw :

10 almost always. If you heat and forge them carefully, they dis-appear.

Tedd-Harris :

What about putting the square bar in the bundle before welding. Do it all at once?

Dave-C :

How difficult would it be to forge weld the bundle? Sounds tough with four pieces at once.

Jock-D :

I've also found, that if you have a hard time forge welding this is a good project. Arc weld just the butt ends. Then forge weld the last 1". Dimag I always used the one I had. . . WAS sharp.

Ten-Hammers :

Actually, it works pretty good on Trivet legs (3/8 square)

Paw-Paw :

BCB, I twist each hook after it's made, then untwist the bundle from both ends. I forgot to mention that I twist the shank of the hooks. When you do this, make sure the twist goes in the same direction as the twisted bundle.

I-Wolf :

tedd thats what i do for bbq handles

Paw-Paw :

Dave, if you bundle the four pieces with wire, isn't too bad. Thank you Mack.

Jock-D :

Dav-C, when forging welding wired bundles be sure to only heat as much as you need. Some folks heat too much and the wire on the tongs end comes loose and makes a mess. Actually you can bundle 5,6, 7. .

Ken :

good job, is this one different from the original

Bob-Rackers :

Do you ever have a problem with the wire becoming welded onto it also?

I-Wolf :

I use 8--3/16 rounds,two per flat side of a 3/8 sq bar--bar is longer than handle twist :)

Jock-D :

A trick I learned on forge welding this type of project is to use a LONG piece of bar that doesn't require tongs. Then cut off the extra. Its not waste, you WILL use it somewhere. . .

Scotsman :

how do you think it would look it as the taper to the hook got smaller (before the hook) if the twists got tighter and THEN you did the S-Hook with that twist in it

Paw-Paw :

When I drew out to make the hooks, the taper went from 1/2" at the bundle to a point before I shaped the hook. Drew it out quite a ways.

kid :

Another tip that works for me, whenever you weld a bundle use a v block or a notch in the swedge block that fits fairly tight to hold them togeather while you hit it. Round rods on a flat anvil don't always want to stay togeather. Good demo and drawings thanks fellers.

Ten-Hammers :

Paw, did you think of just drawin the forge welded ends of the bundle for the hooks? Your Idea works extremely well for the twists though...

Scotsman :

yeah..if when it was tapered you did a twist that got tighter towrds the point and made the s-hook then...just a sugesstion

Jock-D :

Sman. . hmmmmm..... On brazed brass twists I covered the join with a wound wire collar made of 1/8" brazing rod, forged to a point then wraped around the joint using a torch for heat. When it shrinks it won't come off and looks pretty. .

Paw-Paw :

Scotty, Try it! Let us know how it comes out. JW, No problem.

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