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-GURU
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This demo was photographed at the Bill Epps Hammer-In where I met Larry and many other pubbers and CSI members.
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-MILLS
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Good evening, ya'll. Tonight I'll show you a nifty little lady pleaser that was shown to me by Ron Lehenbauer here in OK. While I am using 1/4" square in this demo, I usually use 5/16 or 1/4 rd. It works best for me to not use over 3/8" rd nor try to forge one over 8 inches for the petal.
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Figure 2
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I take a good heat for about 6" along the end. I'll hammer it flat til it is about 5/8 -3/4 " wide and still fairly thick.
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Figure 3
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This give you an idea of what to look for.
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Figure 4
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Using a dull hardy to avoid cold shunts, I drive down a little over half way through the stock
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-MILLS
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the spacing is approximate, I eyeball about 1/4-1/2 " petal spacing. or 2-3 petals / inch. I try to tighten up the spacing making narrower petals as I get close in to where the center will be as it helps later when it is "blooming".
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Figure 5
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This is my favorite part, WHANGING ON IT! (Big Grin).
I try to have the petals vey thin and flat in as few heats as possible. Thin means in this case 20 gauge or so.
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Figure 6
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this is the second or third heat after forming in step 4. On 5/16 roundd it will spread out to about 1+ inches. A rounding hammer or a well worked over ball peen expedites this step. Also work the edges a litlle so that they will dome some.
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Figure 7
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Let me back up here a step and point out that I leave the innermost petal alone pretty much til this step. The reason is that you will need to form a corner. I do that over the edge of the anvil next to the petal then flare the final petal to 'set' the corner.
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Figure 8
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Here we are on the home stretch and where I lose the most roses.. well I make small paper weights.. ahem..Drawing the stem you will need to work it hot and don't let it get into black. They will snap off at the corner. Draw about 2" or so.
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Figure 9
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when you have the stem done start a roll at your corner. I get one good roll nice and round to start with.
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Figure 10
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With a good start I then aloow the forge to do the work. I just roll it a little at a time as soon as it is hot enough to roll, not just kink at the petal joints.
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Figure 11
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If you get a sharp corner started as you roll, a few taps should set thing right. I also finish this way.
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Robin
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Dunham
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Figure 12
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Using some small scroll pliers and yellow heat put the rose into the hardy or some kind of support and bend the petals out. A lot on the outside not so much as you go in.
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Figure 13
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Almost there. This takes several heats as the thin stock cools faster than I move.
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Figure 14
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Done. At this point you can either texture and draw the stock for a bud vase or what I usually do is put a leaf on the end ala iForge #8 and make it into a keyfob. They have been going like hot cakes at demos, but they are time consuming.
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-MILLS
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I believe that is all except for this one of a bald fat beaver that has nothing to do with the demo whatso ever. I will entertain your questions at this time.
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Bill
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verry good demo Larry
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PF
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Good demo Mills!
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Pete-Raven
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How long do they take you Larry?
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-MILLS
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Thanks Bill, PF.
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Bill E
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how long does it take from start to finish with the leaf on the end ??
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B-W
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Very nice demo, Q: How do you cover up the petal bottoms where they wrap around the stem? Would they not look a little funy or is that part of the art?
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-GURU
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We don't want to forget to mention that a little drop of rose perfume can go a long way with the ladies on one of these.
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Pete-Raven
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How do you like to finish them? Wax?
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PF
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Mills, what happens if you taper the bar first?
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Brogan
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Cool Demo! Thanks!
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Pete-Raven
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I like the purrrfume idea
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-MILLS
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Time to d one key fob is on the order of 20-30 minutes usually. When I can just hamer and use production techniques I have done as well as 10 per but that is rare
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B-W
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Rose perfume or a rose extract? Seems the exract would work best
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would require a bit of care
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bigal
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good demo thanks
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-MILLS
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I use wax at demos with the instructions on how to care for it. But I like to use a clear acrylic of some sort
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-GURU
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Bill called these a "Russian Rose" and I wondered where the name came from?
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-MILLS
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PF I do actually draw a bit on the stem at first rather than at the end,
Is that what you mean?
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PF
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Part of what is interesting about this demo is that it is a very different approach to shaping iron than most of the stuff we do..it infers that there are a whole lot more approaches
that we never get around to thinking about
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B-W
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Q: How do you cover up the petal bottoms where they wrap around the stem? Would they not look a little funny or is that part of the art?
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PF
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nope, Meant tapering the poedal part so that the pedals got larger towards the outside
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-MILLS
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B-W almost missed you, I strive to have the outer petals lager than the inner to round it a bit but it doesn't seem to be worthwhile overall as they are very well recd anyway. I have tried dishing them a bit in a swage, upsetting the end and just hammering harder.
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PF
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BW , if it is tucked in nice and tight, it should shrink tighter as it cools and look good
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-MILLS
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I hadn't tried that PF but I might
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B-W
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Ok, thanks. As soon as I can get my forge table welded together (actually need the metal first) This might be the first thing I make
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-MILLS
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I might add that I get 15 - 20 for these at a demo but haven't tried across the counter yet. Price will probably have to drop.
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-GURU
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It would be possible to draw this out of a larger bar and leave a lump under the rose to fill the void.
It would be a lot more work but would be cleaner for some purposes.
This rose is going to show up in Paw-Paw's Revolutionary Blacksmith in a couple months. ;)
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PF
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Mighty nice Mills!
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-MILLS
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If that is all the questions then I will head back to the pub for a bit.
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