anvilfire iForge Demo Dutch Oven Lid Lifter

BILL : `02:47:04`	Tonight's demo is on a "Dutch Oven Lid Lifter". Lots of folks still cook with cast iron, and these are great for checking the biscuits and picking up the heavy stew pot:)
BILL : `02:48:33`	This was shown to me by a good friend named "Kip Coe" from Downtown Decker Prairie, Texas. I had always made it a little different, but this works better than the way I had been doing them.
BILL : `02:49:10`	This is how it is done if ya'll are ready????
BILL : `02:50:02`
BILL : `02:50:57`	Start with a piece of 3/8" square stock about 20-24" long. Draw a long taper on one end a good 3 inches or so.
BILL : `02:51:10`
BILL : `02:52:14`	Bend it over at the end of the taper over the back side of the anvil. Fold it back on top of itself. Heat and flux w/borax.
BILL : `02:52:23`
BILL : `02:53:07`	Forge weld and flatten the end back about 1". Using a hot cutter, we are going to split to the end of the weld.
BILL : `02:53:18`
BILL : `02:54:32`	We split it, put in vice and I use a blunt punch to radius the bottom of the split and spread this out a little past 45 deg.
BILL : `02:54:42`
BILL : `02:56:45`	We are going to spread this a little further, and draw each one of these legs out to where they are about an 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" long. Be careful not to get them too thin. Then take a good heat, bend the leg section down over the edge of the anvil with the single point section up.
BILL : `02:57:01`
BILL : `02:59:01`	We bend this down to not quite a full 90 deg. Now you have 3 legs sticking sticking out and it looks sort of like a chicken foot. We are going to form the front one into the hook that hooks into the handle in the top of the pot lid. The two back legs will hold the lid stable.
BILL : `02:59:14`
BILL : `03:00:31`	Bend the point upward toward the stock to form the hook and let it sort of curve back towards the other two. Now we are going to start the handle.
BILL : `03:00:44`
BILL : `03:02:28`	Cool the hook end off first so you can hold it. Take a heat and put a short point on the other end then flatten down behind the point allowing the stock to spread to make the handle section about 8" long.
BILL : `03:02:42`
BILL : `03:04:52`	Then I go over to the anvil and using the cross pien side of my hammer, I spread this out as far as I can. You want at least a full 1" wide by 8" long. Then I start curving it upward, using the step on my anvil and a cross pien hammer ( I use a diagonal pien) I start putting a radius in the handle (the part that will fit in your hand).
BILL : `03:05:15`
BILL : `03:07:07`	After I get it curved so it feels good in your hand, I put a little roll on the thin pointed end back towards the hook end. The curved part is supposed to fit down in your hand. This drawing doesn't show it quite right, but remember this.
BILL : `03:07:53`
BILL : `03:09:38`	Then I shape the handle. I do this over the horn and allow it to come back on itself. Take a good long heat and put some kind of decorative twist between the hook end and the handle (put a twist on it so you can add $5 to the price.)
BILL : `03:09:53`
BILL : `03:10:35`	It ends up looking something like this.
BILL : `03:10:35`
BILL : `03:12:21`	In the pictures, you can see how the handle is concave downward to fit comfortably in your hand. These are very popular among the buckskinners and chili cookoff people, chuck wagon cooks :) Takes about 30 minutes to build one and they sell for about $20.
BILL : `03:12:38`	Any questions??
BILL : `03:14:04`	I make these as an extra accompaniment piece for the camp cook sets I make and sell. Also some of the folks that use tripods love them. Just an extra add on along with trammel hooks, etc.
Bob-Rackers : `03:15:34`	Bll, I have a question about the welding portion. I've only had a chance to try welding once before the weather around here shut things down. When you lay the one pice back over itself, do you have to do any special shaping like scarfing?
BILL : `03:16:00`	The way I was making these, involved welding 2 pieces together and were a real pain to make and my old buddy Kip told me I was doing it the hard way, I said OK smart-alec show me. First time one of my students ever showed me anything,(just kidding) but thought it was such a good idea I stole it.
Bob-Rackers : `03:17:32`	But do you have to shape them in any particular way or do they lay flat back-to-back?
BILL : `03:17:48`	No Bob, you don't. Just wire brush the steel before you ad the flux. It should be hot at this point, but not too hot. Then the steel will hold the flux. put it back in fire, bring to welding heat when you first bring it out, tap it lightly the first time to get it married together, then utilize the heat and forge it to shape.
amarda : `03:19:28`	We got 4". Is the reason it doesn't need a scarf that it's round stock? or was it square? I forget.
Steve : `03:19:43`	how far back is the weld
BILL : `03:19:51`	Bob, they just lay flat, back to back.
Bob-Rackers : `03:20:06`	So I understand, you lay them back-to-back actually touching, and when you flux it, the flux will get drawn in between them or not? If so, how does it get forced back out again?
Paw-Paw : `03:20:19`	Pot lifter! Nice piece Bill! I make a simpler one out of 1/4" HRS square stock that sells well. Also do the same thing you do, use it as an add on to picnic sets. Make a simple ring head poker for the same purpose.
BILL : `03:20:39`	It is 3/8" square. Just doesn't have to have a scarf cause the pieces should lay down on itself, back to back.
BILL : `03:22:52`	The reason this works sooo well is that the two end tines that you leave sticking out, hold the lid straight when you have the hooked end in the lid loop. It keeps it from dangling around or from tilting from side to side. Like I said, I've made other ways, but this keeps you from getting ashes in the biscuits. I hate that. :)
J-J : `03:23:21`	Bob, the flux will flow anywhere air would flow. No air, no oxidization, easy weld.
amarda : `03:24:02`	Is it difficult to taper the little feet? It looked like it was done on the near side of the face.
BILL : `03:24:07`	yes, bob, it does. If you sprinkle the borax on all the way around, it will melt slightly and runs in.
Bob-Rackers : `03:24:31`	Is that a yes?
BILL : `03:25:01`	Yes, Armada it was. But no, it is not difficult at all.
Bob-Rackers : `03:25:49`	If it flows in, then does it come back out again when you tap it together? Otherwise it would seem like the weld is only taking place around the outside, but not in the center.
BILL : `03:25:52`	Armada I am going to show you this again.
BILL : `03:26:22`
AZ-JOE : `03:26:43`	az jimmy are you there
Paw-Paw : `03:26:51`	Bob, when you tap it, the pressure of the two surfaces coming together forces out the flux.
BILL : `03:26:51`	Bob I'll explain you question as soon as I finish this, ok
amarda : `03:27:09`	Is it the angle of the hammer, or the use of the cross peen that does the tapering on the near side of the face?
BILL : `03:27:53`	The metal marries itself together. ALL flux does is keep the air out so the metal can join together when it is tapped together. Flux doesn't make the weld.
J-J : `03:29:01`	Bob, it's not a problem. Think about forge welding a knife billet. It's perfectly flat pieces being welded with no chance of a scarf. The flux flows anywhere air would flow. That prevents oxidizing scale, the culpret in many failed welds. Just brush it, flux it and smack it firmly, but don't hit the weld like you are trying to kill it. It'll take at a full yellow.
BILL : `03:29:31`	When you draw these legs out, you are forcing the legs to spread at a 90 deg. angle. Which on the near side of the anvil is very easy to get to, and they have a slight taper to them. Does this help Armada??