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Long Horn
Demonstration by Bill Epps.
November 10, 1999

BillEpps :

Tonights piece is a Long Horn Head out of 1/2" sq. I have made them out of everything from 3/8" to 2" square stock.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

Flatten the end on the face of the anvil back about 1".

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

As you flatten or taper the end, keep it the same width as the stock. We take a good heat and use a hot cutter to split all the way through the length of the taper. I put in the vice and use a blunt punch to spread the what will be horns and eliminate sharp end of the cut.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

Now we start drawing the horns out (we keep them square at this point).

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

There is a lag tonight. Please just bear with us and we will get it all done. After we draw out the horns a little bit, I put it in the vice and bump up the end until I am completely flat across the top. Makes a "T". A long horn doesn't have have a cut in the middle of his horns like a water buffalo.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

Now we start rounding the horns out and bring them out to a point.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

At this point, I "Cool the Horns ONLY". I want to get a lot of heat in the section right below the horns, and make my bend as short as possible so as not to end up with a big long face. I fold it back over itself as SHORT AS POSSIBLE!

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

After I make the bend, I move the horns back out of the way, so I can shape the face. I use a rounding hammer to taper the end and shape the face. I use a rounding hammer so I can get a dish or divot in to the edges of the face where the eyes are going to be.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

After I get the face pretty well shaped with the radius in his face, I clamp it in the vice.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

Using a dull center punch, I punch the nostrils, and use a hot cutter to cut the mouth.

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

I take another heat and punch the eyes with the eye punch

BillEpps :

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BillEpps :

Now we straighten the horns back out, and start rolling them down to look like a long horn. I do this over the tip end of the horn of the anvil by rolling it back toward me as I GENTLY tap on it. Repeat the same process (IN REVERSE) for the other side. (THIS DOES TAKE A LITTLE PRACTICE!) Try to keep the horns as uniform as possible.

BillEpps :

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sharon :

One went down, will work from here. I take a good heat the stock below the head, I cool the nose and loop it back. Go over the edge of the horn and hammer it down so it will center up.

sharon :

It should look something like this.

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sharon :

Sorry my picture isn't very clear. I use this on fireplace tool sets, on Boot scrapers, and assorted other things. They are very popular. The longhorn firetool set that I do sells for $450.

sharon :

Any questions or clarifications ??

Jock-D :

When you rolled the "face" over, do you bring it to a welding heat to make it solid?

T-boat :

do you weld the head when it's folded?

scotsman :

could you put this on the head of a cane...?

BillEpps :

It is not necessary to bring the head to a welding heat because I bend it so short the part in front of the crack is what I use to shape the face with. When you fold a piece of 1/2 over itself, 1/2" back, you end up with full 1/2" of metal in front to shape the face with.

John-L :

What time does it take for you do do this?

BillEpps :

You have to get it up to almost a welding heat to be able to bend it that short, that's why I say, AS SHORT AS Possible. It takes me about 30-45 minutes to make one of these from 1/2" stock. Bigger stock longer.

T-boat :

how do you get it so hot and not burn the horns off!

BillEpps :

A horse head is different, but this same head can be made into a Rams Head, A Mule Head, a Gazzel, a Moose, a Deer, Elk, anything with horns. You just got to shape the horns, the face is approximately the same.

BillEpps :

T-Boat - You have to dip the horns in the Quench tub, and ONLY the horns to keep from burning them up while you are heating the bigger mass. I cool the horns alot. Sorry, I forget to say this enough, it's too automatic for me.

Jock-D :

T-boat, It also helps to control your fire so its not TOO hot! Gas forge does a nice job on this type of stuff.

BillEpps :

Very true, gas does real well on this. I use gas at shop, of course always use coal at a show. Worth every penny JJ, I just got a raise. Hi Gary, How's the bride.

John-L :

Jock- Even with a gas forge you have to cool the horns don't you?

Jock-D :

John, Not unless the forge is cranked up for welding. OR you are using toobig a furnace.

T-boat :

I use charcoal, it takes a deaper fire to produce enough heat to get things hot it seems, happy day, J-J!

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