Basket Twist - 8 bar by James Joyce

Jock-D : `01:38:23`	Welcome to the 55th iForge demo. Tonight's demonstrator is JJ (James Joyce) from Northern California. We will start in just a few.
J-J : `01:38:28`
J-J : `01:39:34`	This is a finial i use for curtain rod ends, but can be used for fireplace tool handles, gate post finials, etc.
J-J : `01:40:25`
J-J : `01:41:28`	I use 8 pieces of 11" long 5/16" square stock around a piece of 2 3/4" long X 3/8" sq stock at each end.
J-J : `01:42:02`	I overlap the small squares about one inch up the 3/8" mandred piece, one end at a time...
J-J : `01:42:52`	I clamp 2 pieces on opposite sides of the mandrel in a post vice and thoroughly tack weld the TIPS only to the mandrel.
J-J : `01:43:46`	Then I rotate the mandrel and weld the other 2 sides, then have all 8 5/16" pieces welded to the mandrel on one end.
J-J : `01:43:55`
J-J : `01:44:10`	This shows where to weld.
J-J : `01:44:37`	Do not, let the weld get down on the face of the small pieces or it will ruin it!
J-J : `01:45:24`	After attaching the pieces at each end, with each 3/8" sq mandrel burried about 1" maximum, it's now time to forge weld.
J-J : `01:46:09`	Bring one end of the work slowly up to a red, bring out of the fire, wire brush and borax lightly.
J-J : `01:46:49`	Back to the fire, and SLOWLY come to a full welding heat. (if not slowly, the smaller outside pieces will melt and the inside will not be at welding heat.
J-J : `01:47:55`	Once you reach welding heat, come to the half round bottom swage, and tap lightly as you rotate lthe work, welding lightly all around, but work with dispatch, as you will be loosing heat quickly.
J-J : `01:48:12`	Wire brush, reflux and weld one more time.
J-J : `01:48:40`
J-J : `01:50:01`	Work over the anvil horn with a rounding hammer or a ball pien to achieve the basic cone and ball shape. The ball may be refined easily by laying the cone in the half round bottom swage and working the overhanging ball with light hammer strokes as you rotate the work 360 degrees.
J-J : `01:50:35`
J-J : `01:51:35`	I leave the other end as is, with this one caution: if your weld needs cleaning up, now is the time to heat that end and dress the weld lightly with a hammer over the anvil face.
J-J : `01:52:54`	Now, it's time to twist. Heat the entire piece a nice even orange color, lock the rounded tip into the post vice clamp (see previous demo on iforge for this clamp), and lock the twisting wrench on the square shank and twist 1 and 1/2 times.
J-J : `01:54:33`	Back to the fire for another nice orange and even heat, lock into the vice clamp again, fit the twisting wrench and slowly begin to untwist 1/2 turn only. As you are untwisting, tap ligghtly on the square shank tip with a hammer.
J-J : `01:55:06`	As you untwist and tap with the hammer, the basket will oven nice and symetrically.
J-J : `01:55:28`	Wire brush thoroughly and admire your piece :)
J-J : `01:55:28`
J-J : `01:55:48`	Any questions?
Ralph : `01:56:43`	Tho I think you have helped on my other basket twist problems. I was trying to untwist too far....
Tedd-Harris : `01:56:52`	Please give us the stock information again. Nice looking piece.
Steve-C : `01:56:52`	JJ on this and the one that bill did How do you get the scale out of the inside? if any
J-J : `01:56:53`	Oh, i think I made a mistake...3/16 or slightly less is the size of the basket parts for a 3/8" mandrel...sorry.
Jim-C : `01:57:00`	J-J you started with 5/15" sq. stock not 3/16" ?
J-J : `01:57:53`	Steve, I use a stiff wire brush, and a light tap against the anvil once it starts to cool to black. No problem.
Bill-Epps : `01:58:25`	how do you keep the rods from colapsing while being twisted??
Steve-C : `01:59:00`	how would you use this in a handle? like in the middle of a handle
J-J : `01:59:08`	To size the pieces, just make sure that 2 of the basket pieces side by side are not wider than the mandrel.
J-J : `01:59:47`	Bill, I've never thought about how to keep them from collapsing since it never happened to me :)
OErjan : `02:00:23`	nie demoJ-J. one Q though. do you not forgeweld both ends? or do you do that when ataching the basket to whatever it is you are making.
J-J : `02:00:49`	Steve, a small version of this makes a very nice handle for any tool that can absorbe heat, as the smaller pieces dissapate it quickly..
J-J : `02:01:47`	OErjan, I forge weld only one end. The other end fits inside a curtain rod and locks with the aid of a set screw. That's why the weld cannot overlap the side pieces, it would be unsightly.
Jim-C : `02:01:54`	J-J Half round bottom swage: radius made from 3/4" diamter round or a little bigger?
J-J : `02:05:27`	The ball end ...when forming the cone, come back about 3/4" from the end and set down a divot all the way around over the far edge of the anvil...
barne : `02:05:49`	I am interested in the ball end
J-J : `02:07:32`	After that cone part is complete, go to the half round swage and let the ball tip material overhand, and will a ball pien hammer, start forming the ball shape and you rotate the piece. After you get use to it, you can do it over the anvil horn, but the english teach the use fo the half round swage for this.
meme : `02:11:25`	J-J, what is the diameter in the center of the cone, and also how long is it overall???
J-J : `02:13:29`	The cone smallest part dia is 1/4" and the piece is 12" overall, but only 10" sticks out as a finished piece, as 2" of 3/8" sq shank fits inside the durtain rod.