horse29.gif (27776 bytes)    horse30.gif (26491 bytes)
Horse Head

Demonstration by Bill Epps.
January 05, 2000

BILL-Epps :

Tonights demo is a Horse Head, made from square stock which I use for firetools, wall sconces, door knockers, and handheld boot scrapers. These always sell good.

BILL-Epps :

horse01.gif (3702 bytes)

horse02.gif (3919 bytes)

BILL-Epps :

On this one, I am starting with 3/4" square. I bump up the end a little bit and start tapering the end down. This first picture is out of order. A horse head is actually a "Diamond Shape". We generate this by tapering what will become the muzzle, leaving the jaws "thick-wide".

BILL-Epps :

After we taper the nose, and set down on the edge of the anvil using 1/2 blows, taper the neck on 3 sides, trapping the metal between the edge of the anvil and the corner of your hammer. On the corner of the anvil, rotate it downward and start the muzzle. This gives the rough shape of the head.

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horse03.gif (3318 bytes)

horse04.gif (3583 bytes)

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Now we go to the carving block which is in the vice. I use a very "Blunt chisel-punch", I push the metal from the nose back to the back of the head which is the metal I use to form the ears. This is the hardest part of the whole deal. This needs to be done with it good and hot.

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horse05.gif (3955 bytes)

horse06.gif (2868 bytes)

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After we push the meetal back as shown, we go to anvil and start shaping the ears. Horses ears are narrower than his jaw, so you taper the metal in for his ears

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horse07.gif (2938 bytes)

horse08.gif (3295 bytes)

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Do you see what I mean now by Narrower than his jaw? Use the blunt chisel punch to shape up the back of the ear by driving this metal down, it causes the ears to raise up. With a good sharp Hot cutter, split the ears. Work this metal at a good heat.

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horse09.gif (2908 bytes)

horse10.gif (2934 bytes)

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After you make your split, use the blunt chisel again to flatten between his ears. This also spreads the ears out some.

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horse11.gif (2857 bytes)

horse12.gif (2262 bytes)

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Now I go back to the carving block. Using a dull center punch, we start refining the ear.

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Bring up other computer in case this one goes down.

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horse13.gif (2109 bytes)

horse14.gif (2764 bytes)

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I catch the center punch mark on the tip of the anvil and thin the ear out a little more. Keep this good and hot, but be careful not the burn the ears off.

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horse15.gif (3014 bytes)

horse16.gif (2742 bytes)

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With it good and hot, I use a 1/2 round file (14") to smooth up and dress up the muzzle.

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horse17.gif (2727 bytes)

horse18.gif (2538 bytes)

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I clamp the piece in the vice. I hammer in the corners of the muzzle at a 45 deg. angle.

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horse19.gif (2980 bytes)

horse20.gif (2730 bytes)

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I use a center punch in the center of the flats that I made at a 45 deg. angle to punch the nostrils, and I use a hot cutter to cut the mouth.

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horse21.gif (2617 bytes)

horse22.gif (2907 bytes)

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Then laying it on the anvil face, I punch the eyes with an eyepunch. This is done at a good heat so the eye sort of bulges upward a little bit, it will also give a little wrinkle between the eyes, but not too much.

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horse23.gif (2960 bytes)

horse24.gif (4160 bytes)

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Using a hot cutter between his eyes, up to his ears, I cut in his forelock. Now we go to the horse of the anvil, using a cross-pien, and start drawing out the mane (A Farrier's rounding hammer works good for this too).

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We do this on the horn of the anvil.

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horse25.gif (2886 bytes)

horse26.gif (3035 bytes)

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This picture should have come before the last one. Anyway, draw the mane real thin, and round up the neck

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horse27.gif (2967 bytes)

horse28.gif (4075 bytes)

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I curve the name, put some hammer marks in it to give the assemblance of hair, then I heat it up, Careful not to burn the ears off. Cool the nose only and bend the head over and break him at the pole slightly.
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horse29.gif (27776 bytes) 

horse30.gif (26491 bytes)

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They are laying on their side and the pictures are a little distorted, but it will give you an idea of what it is supposed to look like.

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T-Boat :

How do you get the bulge of the jaw?

Tom-Stovall :

Bill, your horse looks suspiciously like an Arab. Thanks for a great demo!

guru :

Nice phots Bill, that welder does a good job! :)

jim-c :

Explain carving block please.

Kent :

The carving tool rest, is that just a peice of bar stock the same thickness as the horse head? Thanks for the demo Bill

dimag :

Great demo Bill.:)

Ntech :

What is the price increase you add to the item that has a horse head on it?

BILL-Epps :

This is a piece of 3/4" square. I heated the end and bumped it up a little bit, then as I tapered the end that will become the nose and muzzle and leave the jaws the width of the stock.

BILL-Epps :

A carving block is a piece of 2" X 2" cut on a 45 deg. angle. with a piece of about 3/16" X 1 1/2" welded on the 45 deg. side. This is the blade that clamps between the vice jaw and the work.

BILL-Epps :

Whatever the market will bear, but at least $50 more.

dimag :

I've had the privilege of watching Bill make one of these and he makes it look so easy even if it ain't.It was amasing to me to watch it unfold before my very eyes.Nice work Bill,trouble is .now my wife wants one!

BILL-Epps :

Thanks to all of you for listening to me. Hope I've answered the questions.

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