Heart Shaped Hook
Demonstration by Bill Epps.
http://www.besmithy.com
August 25, 1999
Bill : |
What we are going to do tonight is one way of making a Heart. Hearts always sell good at shows, the Ladies love them. | |||
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Bill : |
For this piece I am using 3/8" Rnd. The same technique can be used on whatever size heart you want to make. This is going to be a simple hook, I also use them for a wall sconce out of larger stock, Candle Holders, a key chain fob out of smaller stock. We scarf the end of the bar and prepare it for welding. | |||
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Bill : |
Fold the piece over the side of the anvil 90 deg. and back over itself and weld it. This fold is about 5" because that is the width of my anvil face. | |||
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Bill : |
I forge weld these, but you can tack it with a mig, flux it, bring it up to a welding heart, and hammer the weld out any few know the difference. When welding this you don't want to thin the weld down too much. Center it back up like shown here. | |||
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Bill : |
Then we come to the other end and draw it down to as short a point as possible. This needs to be good and hot when you draw that point down. Keep it even by working it one side then the other equally so you don't end up with a thin side on it. | |||
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Bill : |
take a good heat, then use a pointed punch (I use an old cold chisel) to spread the center open (depending on the size of the heart), but on this one here, I open it up to about 1". You want to spread the top more than the back side. | |||
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Bill : |
I round the top of the opening on the horn of the anvil | |||
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This is just to smooth things out and keep everything centered. | |||
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Bill : |
Right at the end of the tip, fold it down over the side of the anvil at 90 degrees. Turn it over and fold it back over itself until it is flat. Now you have your heart shape. | |||
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Bill : |
Now I start beveling the top of the curves to spread the heart and give it some character and definition. Also, takes out the twist marks. I do this by holding my hammer at an angle and hitting straight down. Start from the center of the bar and working outward at the edge of the anvil face. | |||
Bill : |
The heart should be thick on the inside and beveled out to a thin edge. Go back to the horn of the anvil to keep the heart symmetrical, and we are going to cut off just below the weld for this hook. | |||
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Bill : |
Now we are going to draw out the piece which serves as the point that forms the hook. When you are working a weld, keep it at or near a welding heat to keep from beating your weld apart. With the the tapered side of the heart up, curl the very tip of the hood point down. | |||
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Bill : |
With the tip curl up, form it down over the horn to make the hook. | |||
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Bill : |
Wire brush. Drill two small mounting holes, and apply finish. | |||
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It should end up looking something like this. | |||
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ASK QUESTIONS NOW PLEASE |
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Bill : |
Jeff, in answer to your question, always remember the metal will move where the heat is, so heat it where you want it to move. On this piece, I heat the end of just back past the point it down, it will move freely. | |||
Jock-D : |
This project is also a very good one to practice forge welding on. No tongs required. | |||
Bill : |
These can also be used mounted above a window for holding curtain Rods! | |||
jean : |
When you folded the point down to form the center of the heart, was this folded to the back side? | |||
Bill : |
No, Jean, I leave the fold on the front side so I can hammer it out when I bevel the top edges of the heart. | |||
Bill : |
I use this same technique out of 1/2" bar for a candle holder as well as a Wall Sconce. Vince Herod makes a cute little Key Chain Fog out of 2/15 and 1/4" | |||
Bob-Rackers : |
Is the extra care when working a weld in case it wasn't a perfect weld? | |||
Bill : |
Even a perfect weld, if you try to work it too cold, will come apart. | |||
dimag : |
Forge welding, Gak,I don't do that very well.Could a welding challenged guy like me, maybe split a piece of rod and do the same stuff to it,and make it work. | |||
Bill : |
Yes, Dimag, that will work, but just a lot of troubled. | |||
Bill : |
It looks good done that way too. | |||
Jock-D : |
Dimag, do like Bill said. MIG it, then dress it in the forge. If you stick weld it, be sure to clean ALL the flux off before forging. | |||
Ntech : |
What do they sell for Bill? | |||
J-J : |
$85 signed by the smithing artist! :) | |||
Bill : |
just depends on the size | |||
Bill : |
these hooks sell for about $12.50 | |||
Bob-Rackers : |
Bill, you said when working the weld to keep it near a welding temp. Is that just to be safe in case you didn't get a perfect weld, or will a perfect weld also tend to come apart on you? | |||
Bill : |
The hooks sell for $12.50. The wall sconces and candle holders sell for $25 (old price, Bill says he's going up). Check out this website to see these. | |||
Bill : |
with practice one of these can be made in about 15 min | |||
Bob-Rackers : |
So you have to work the welded area hotter than you would normally have to ? | |||
J-J : |
Bob, in many of the books you'll see it referred to as a "light welding heat" | |||
Allen : |
That right ,Bob. |
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