Flower Forged by Bill Epps

Bill-Epps : `01:58:02`	Tonight I am doing a flower that was shown to me by Hiner Zinnerman
Bill-Epps : `01:59:50`
Bill-Epps : `02:01:31`	start with 3/4 round bar , start a tenon about 1in (or so) back from the end
Bill-Epps : `02:01:48`
Bill-Epps : `02:03:22`	using the eadge of the anvil and the side of the hammer set the tenon down
Bill-Epps : `02:03:50`
Bill-Epps : `02:04:54`	drew the tenon down to less tha n 1/2 in
Bill-Epps : `02:05:30`
Bill-Epps : `02:08:06`	draw it down and make it nice and round (the tenon should be about 3 to 4 in long at this point, then come up the bar about two in and start the hardy cut
Bill-Epps : `02:08:42`
Bill-Epps : `02:11:02`	Then I have a tool that fits in the hardy hole which is a 3" round bar w/a 3/8" hole in it, and a Sq/. Hardy Shank. After I cut the bar off, about 2" long above the tenent, I take a good heat and set it in this tool and drive it straight down w/a striking hammer.
Bill-Epps : `02:11:18`
Bill-Epps : `02:12:50`	I hammer this down w/a striking hammer til I have a biscuit on the top which is about 1/4" thick X 2-3" in diameter. I use a piece of soap stone and lay out a five pointed star, and mark the points w/a center punch.
Bill-Epps : `02:13:41`
Bill-Epps : `02:15:17`	Ok, where these center punch marks are, I use a ball pien hammer (that I have annealed the face of) and set a divot down using a striking hammer on top of the ball pien.
Bill-Epps : `02:15:34`
Bill-Epps : `02:17:09`	I said ball pien, but it is actually a ball pien that I have ground into the shape of a "tear drop". I put 5 of those in w/a round spot in the center, then I get my hot cutter to use next.
Bill-Epps : `02:17:29`
Bill-Epps : `02:18:59`	I mark lines in between the indentations using the hot cutter w/ hammer putting down the blows, but I do not go all the way through. Then I use a blunt nose chisel which I will explain next.
Bill-Epps : `02:19:08`
Bill-Epps : `02:21:31`	Use the blunt nose chisel in the lines made by the hot cutter, and take this a deep as possible. Then using a round ring about 1" ID out of 1/2" round stock over the hardy hole, I will put a cup in this flower. As I cup it, the individual petals will tear and separate however they want, and this gives each individual flower a uniqueness all its own.
Bill-Epps : `02:21:53`
Bill-Epps : `02:23:07`	After I cup the flower up and the petals separate slightly, I use a ball pien hammer over the horn of the anvil to pull the tips of the petals down just a little bit to give it some character.
Bill-Epps : `02:23:16`
Bill-Epps : `02:24:42`	Then coming to the other end, draw the stem out to give it some length and make it look refined and delicate looking. Also, you can add leaves to the stems, and it makes a very nice accent piece.
Bill-Epps : `02:25:00`
Bill-Epps : `02:25:00`	This is what the flower looks like, It really looks like a petunia or morning glory. Sorry about such a slow start.
Bill-Epps : `02:26:00`	Any questions???
Andy-Gladish : `02:26:20`	Back there where you were making the tenon, why the side of your hammer?
TonyB : `02:27:36`	Thanks Bill! Can you explain the round ring and petal separation again?
Bill-Epps : `02:27:49`	Andy, I use the side of my hammer for my top fuller and the corner of my anvil for a bottom fuller. Using a fullering tool I always get a cold shunt when I start drawing the stem out. This works best for me.
barne : `02:29:59`	would the pithard hole be use the same way
Jim-C : `02:30:31`	Special tool to head the flower -- Does the 3/8" hole go all the way through the hardy shank?
Bill-Epps : `02:30:39`	TonyB, After I make my cuts w/hot cutter, I use the blunt nose chisel to pinch the metal real thin at the bottom. The round ring is just a piece of 1/2" bar that I bent around 1" pin. I place the tenant in the center of this of this ring and using a ball pien flower in the center of the flower and strike . This cups the whole flower up, and the thin metal at the bottom of the grooves tears erratically.
Pix : `02:31:35`	Bill, how many heat to "flatten" the flower?
Jock-D : `02:31:40`	Barne, the pritchel hole is generally too far away from the body of the anvil for heavy upsetting.
Bill-Epps : `02:31:57`	Jim - C YES, all the way the hardy shank.
Jock-D : `02:33:13`	Usint the pritchel hole on standard anvils for uppsetting is a good way to break the anvil. You see a lot of old anvils broken at this point.
Ten-Hammers : `02:33:39`	Beeswax this Bill ?
Bill-Epps : `02:34:04`	Yes, Jock this is true.
Bill-Epps : `02:34:40`	Ten, Brass brush it while still black heat, then finish off w/bees wax and it all adds to the highlights of the steel.
Bill-Epps : `02:36:29`	I use a lot of these on pot racks, lamps and in conjuction w/humming birds, snails, and dragon flys I have shown before. These are all attached to winding vines and some hand made leaves too.
Ten-Hammers : `02:37:20`	Time to make Bill?
Jock-D : `02:37:46`	This would make a very good 'estucheon' or rivit.
Bill-Epps : `02:37:51`	Teh-H, about a 30 minute project for each flower.
Bill-Epps : `02:38:49`	Do what Jock, what is a 'extucheon', could be used as a rivit on gate projects, etc. though. This is Sharon asking, sure Bill knows answer already, :)
minatawa : `02:38:50`	this was very cool, maybe someday I will acually be able to use it
Jock-D : `02:40:29`	estucheon, A decorative device applied to a surface.