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-GURU
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Our Demonstrator tonight is Jim Carothers a CSI member. This is his second iForge demo.
The item being made will be available on the anvilfire auction page later this evening (if I can remember how to set it up). Proceeds to benifit anvilfire. Thank you Jim!
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JIM C
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Tom Nelson’s Scrolling Fork
[Text & Photos by Jim Carothers]
This is a simple project but has some good thought in the layout. Tom Nelson, member of the Saltfork Craftsmen ABA recently showed me how to make and use this scrolling fork.
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Figure 1 |
Photo 1 shows a scroll being started on the horn of the anvil.
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Figure 2 |
Photo 2 shows a scroll being formed in tonight’s tool.
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Figure 3 |
Photo 3 is part of a trellis Tom made for his wife this past Mother’s Day, and a nice basket twist on top too.
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JIM C
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By making the basic scrolling fork handle from square or rectangular bar, you have a good surface to grip the tool in a vise. By attaching the pins as shown and keeping the welds flush with or below the top and bottom surfaces of the handle you have a guide to help keep the scroll flat as it is formed. By using different spacing of the two pins you can work different size stock into a scroll or bend.
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Figure 4 |
Photo 4: Getting the fabrication started.
- Item 1) 1/2" square bar (or 1/2 x 3/4 ) by about 12” long
- Item 2) 1/2" round bar x 4-1/2” long
(use 4-3/4” long if using 1/2 x 3/4 for the handle)
- Item 3) 2 pieces of 1/2" round bar x 2-3/8” long
(use 2-1/2” long if using 1/2 x 3/4 for the handle)
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Figure 5 |
Photo 5: Begin by beveling the top and bottom surfaces of one end of the handle stock as shown. Make the bevels about 3/16” by 45 degrees. This will allow you to get a good weld that can be ground and filed flush. Fit and tack weld as shown; the top of the pin is 2” above the handle.
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Figure 6 |
Photo 6: Complete the welding of the first (long) pin to the handle. Grind and file the weld flush with the top and bottom surfaces of the handle. Next bevel both of the side pins for welding. Do not grind the bevel too far down the pin; 3/16” will be plenty.
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Figure 7 |
Photo 7: I used a piece of 2” square tubing to hold the subassembly of the first pin / handle for welding on of the side pins. The square sawed end of this 2” tubing gave me a surface to set the side pin against – a fit up aid.
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JIM C
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Photo 7: In this photo a piece of 3/8” square bar will be used to set the spacing of the scrolling pins. The second scrolling pin will be spaced using a 1/2" square bar.
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JIM C
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If you are going to do small scroll work, I suggest you use 1/4" and 3/8” for the spacers.
In fact, you may want to make up several of these scrolling forks with various pin spacings from 1/4" to 1/2" or more. Don’t be tempted to weld pins on both ends of the handle though; the second set of pins on the same handle get in the way of forming a scroll.
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Figure 8 |
Photo 8: This what the tool looks like after welding on the first two pins. The welds have been filed flush with the top of the handle. The spacing is 3/8”.
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Figure 9 |
Photo 9: The second pin has been fit and tack welded. The spacing is 1/2".
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Figure 10 |
Photo 10: After fit up and tack welding, I clamp the spacer between the pins to hold the works in line for final welding. As shown here, this is the 1/2" spacer.
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Figure 11 |
Photo 11: The business end of the finished fork.
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Figure 3 |
Tom's scrolls and twist again. Thanks for letting me do the demo tonight. Any questions?
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WOLFSMITHY
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Great demo...welding skills are important here I would think...lot of force on those pins, agree or no?
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BROGAN
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Cool tool . . . I'm gonna make one.
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JOCK D
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My only recomendation on scrolling forks is that I make my pins shorter. That way if your welds are not so good they are less likely to break. . .
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PETE F
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Nice Job Jim!. . . a small addition if I may. . . . One should radius the ends of the pins so that it can be used end-on without leaving marks . . .I like the placement of the bottom pins a lot.
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