anvilfire iForge Demo Camp Hand Axe

Rich-Hale : `20:35:23`	Tonights demo is a small hand or camp axe
Rich-Hale : `20:36:05`	This is not a real big challenge but it will require you to use a few skills that have been covered in earlier demos
Rich-Hale : `20:37:21`	If you wish to make tools, blades and or forge weld,,,this is a good piece to learn on
Rich-Hale : `20:37:48`	And we will also harden and tempere the blade.
Rich-Hale : `20:38:21`	As my typos appear read through them or we can clear them up later with a Q and A session.
Rich-Hale : `20:39:23`	For this I started with a chunk of scrap 14" stock that was 1 1/2" wide and nine inches in length
Rich-Hale : `20:40:45`	You can vary the stock size is you wish,,,,,but this is a good starting point
Rich-Hale : `20:41:42`	For this axe I wanted a bit of extra weight in the butt to use as a hammer on occasion.....so I bumped up the stock for extra weight
Rich-Hale : `20:42:50`	If you would like to simply wrap around the handle I will let you know when to jump back in and you can eleminate these first steps....
Rich-Hale : `20:43:08`
Rich-Hale : `20:44:25`	Stand the stock on end and drive the stock down into itself,,,,cool the ends a bit to a black heat and leave the middle bright.
Rich-Hale : `20:45:56`	Tip*** Lay hammer down and use second pair of tongs....take metal from fire with those and dip other end in slack tub.....then grasp with tongs in tong hand and dip other end.....now drive into the end with hammer
Rich-Hale : `20:46:51`	When you move the metal down it will cause stock to bend ans curve,,,,take it flat on face ofanvil and straighten it out as needed,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `20:47:35`	When it is bending you willnot get metal bumped where we want it....Keep your power going down into the metal
Rich-Hale : `20:49:04`	Tip*** put a chalk mark on the near side of anvil....so you can hold stock up to it and see if you have shortened it,,,we want about an inch less than when we started......make a mark one inch less than starting length
Rich-Hale : `20:49:13`
Rich-Hale : `20:49:48`	after bumping up the metal it should look like this from the side.........
Rich-Hale : `20:50:32`	That is a start,, but we can get more metal in that middle by makeing a bow tie out of it..........
Rich-Hale : `20:50:41`
Rich-Hale : `20:51:34`	drive into the wide side middle until it is about one inch wide,,,,,Just one side....
Rich-Hale : `20:52:03`
Rich-Hale : `20:52:41`	Bow tie is on the left.... of graphic
Rich-Hale : `20:54:11`	Then lay metal flat on anvil face and set down stock about 3/4" off of center,,,,eye that center
Rich-Hale : `20:55:29`	Set it down until stock is back to 1/4" in thickness on blade side of stock
Rich-Hale : `20:55:44`	Like in last pic
Rich-Hale : `20:55:53`
Rich-Hale : `20:56:46`	Do the other side the same........You will have a flat piece with a thick spot one one side of it...that side will be the back,,,the outside of axe......
Rich-Hale : `20:57:01`
Rich-Hale : `20:57:53`	the spot under the hammer is the outside.......
Rich-Hale : `20:58:14`	start you turn and work around as you push tongs down.
Rich-Hale : `20:58:50`	Bend both sides until they roughly form a ninety degree angle
Rich-Hale : `20:59:01`
Rich-Hale : `21:00:36`	After you get the ninety,,,,fan out the ends a bit with a cross pien
Rich-Hale : `21:01:23`	Hit them so that the dent is deeper on the end of the stock,,,and tapers up towards the other end.....
Rich-Hale : `21:02:05`	Hit once in the middle on one side thn flip it and hit on either side of first hit
Rich-Hale : `21:02:34`	Three hits on this size stock, like in pic but one on other side will do it
Rich-Hale : `21:03:19`	Make dents go half way into stock on the end
Rich-Hale : `21:03:58`	Then flatten them out with smooth face of hammer and they will widen at the end,,,fan shaped
Rich-Hale : `21:04:32`
Rich-Hale : `21:04:50`	Now take your bend on aound into a U shape
Rich-Hale : `21:05:44`	This graphic will also show that you can set down if you wishmmmthe branches where our bit will go later......I thinned the stock with half blows before turning.
Rich-Hale : `21:06:46`	And it also shows how the end of the stock should look at this point,,,that may make it a bit clearer what we havve been doing earlier
Rich-Hale : `21:07:37`	Now that we have the rough shape
Rich-Hale : `21:08:24`	Those that wanted jst a plain bent stock,,,can just make the bend now and be right with us......
Rich-Hale : `21:08:56`	We need to put in bit that we can heat treat and produce a useing edge that will last.
Rich-Hale : `21:09:51`	i used a pice of an old horseshoe rasp
Rich-Hale : `21:10:51`	Lots of things will work....test them by forgeing a small blade from an extra piece and temere and harden and see what you have.
Rich-Hale : `21:11:31`	i know this stock will water harden......If you try a piece and it cracks,,,try oil next sample
Rich-Hale : `21:11:41`
Rich-Hale : `21:12:39`	I took a good heat and flared out the end to match its new home
Rich-Hale : `21:13:15`	Then with another heat i used a hot cutter for a right size piece
Rich-Hale : `21:13:33`
Rich-Hale : `21:14:18`	I used a cross pien to closse up the bend,,,a bit on both sides to keep it symetrical
Rich-Hale : `21:14:57`	Leave room for the bit...but you want it to fit tightly....we do not want to drop it out when getting ready for a weld........
Rich-Hale : `21:15:47`	Now,,,my,,"this works for me" welding plan
Rich-Hale : `21:16:30`	And by the way,,,if yo are just wanting a wall hager,,,,leave out the bit,,,weld the two sides and finish it......
Rich-Hale : `21:17:11`	For welding with a propane forge......Get the forge hot....You should see a nice yellow orange color inside all over,,,,,,the forge
Rich-Hale : `21:17:42`	Put the bit in place,,,go into the fire with metal and let it get a dark red,,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:18:06`	Bring it out and wire brush the edges and flux.......
Rich-Hale : `21:18:47`	Now you see why we wanted a tight fit on the bit!!
Rich-Hale : `21:19:00`	I use common laundry boraxo......
Rich-Hale : `21:19:16`	Back into the fire
Rich-Hale : `21:19:37`	Let the stock get to the color of the inside of the forge
Rich-Hale : `21:20:10`	If you take it out and see shadows on one side put it backin,,,that side up.
Rich-Hale : `21:20:28`	Now be real ready....
Rich-Hale : `21:20:54`	If you hit the metal while at this heat and it has scale on it,,,it will imbed into the metal,,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:21:12`	Now be real ready....
Rich-Hale : `21:21:35`	If you hit the metal at this heat,,any scale will imbed into the metal
Rich-Hale : `21:22:25`	With brush in hand,,,remove from heat and brush both sides quickly.
Rich-Hale : `21:22:59`
Rich-Hale : `21:23:47`	Then hit light blows on the edges,,,three hits on first side,,,three on the other
Rich-Hale : `21:24:04`	Like in drawing
Rich-Hale : `21:24:20`	That is all I do on first heat,,,,six hits.
Rich-Hale : `21:25:43`	When you flip to second side,,,if there is a shadow in the metal,,,,brush and flux,,,back to the fire.......
Jock-D : `21:27:13`	Excuse me Rich. Borax'o' is a different stuff. from BORAX (same company) Borax'o' doesn't work.
Rich-Hale : `21:27:17`	Then comlete your weld....I brush each time and starting at the edges work back up into the area to be welde,,,,but Still with three hits on each side,,,,I will Keep welding as long as I have enough hat in the metal,,,whe I get shadows,,,,Brush,,,flux and back to heat
Rich-Hale : `21:27:52`	Good point Jock....I use the laundry soap,,,,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:28:51`	When you comlete you weld,,,,take a good heat and shape up the blade,,,smooth and taper it down,,,and thenyou cn drifgt the eye out
Rich-Hale : `21:29:35`	I used a fairly round eye with a bit of a point towards the blade so handle does not twist........
Rich-Hale : `21:30:28`	Now at tis point I turn the forge off and leet the piece just sit in the forge for a while to relieve a bit of forgeing stress,,,,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:31:14`	When color is all gone for a while i will cool the blade and shape the edge with a grinder.......
Rich-Hale : `21:32:31`	We want a fairly stout edge,,leave some matereial near the edge to support it,,,,,Or it will dull or chip
Rich-Hale : `21:33:12`	look the piece over and make last minute changes if needed
Rich-Hale : `21:33:25`	Now to harden......
Rich-Hale : `21:33:47`	I know this is a water quenched bit,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:34:29`	I will heat it until the edge will not stick to a magnet and then plunge the piece into the slack tub.......
Rich-Hale : `21:35:25`	If you want to get a feel for this,,,take a scrap piec and heat it,,,starting at a red heat take it to a magnet and see how hot you need to get it before it s nonmagnetic
Rich-Hale : `21:36:01`	Fridge magnets melt!!!
Rich-Hale : `21:36:25`	I keep a good magnet right by forge,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:36:50`	Remember what color the material was when it would not stick to magnet
Rich-Hale : `21:37:03`	That is what you want to get with your blade
Rich-Hale : `21:38:14`	After you cool the piece,,,,test with a file,,,should be real hard along the edge,,,,file may just slide across it s
Rich-Hale : `21:39:02`	And of course with an edge that hard it would not be easy to sharpen......would chip and break,,,,,....
Rich-Hale : `21:39:19`	And may have pieces come off,,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:39:37`	So we need to bring that hardness back down a bit......
Rich-Hale : `21:40:00`	WE can do this in the forge,,,or the oven in the house,,,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:41:08`	Ploish the edge so you can see colors change as you heat the stock
Rich-Hale : `21:41:48`	For the oven,,heat to 450f before you harden........then put stock in and try one hour
Rich-Hale : `21:42:07`	You want to color the edge to a medium blue color
Rich-Hale : `21:43:01`	A good smooth cut file should take a bite,,not slide off,,,,,and it should feel harde thatn rest of Mild steel areas......
Rich-Hale : `21:43:27`	If file slips,,,back in and go to dark blue,,,try again.........
Rich-Hale : `21:44:09`	You want to be able to restore an edge on this axe with a file......
Rich-Hale : `21:44:48`	When it feels right quench again.........
Rich-Hale : `21:45:34`	if you use oil for quench,,,do this with forge outside
Rich-Hale : `21:46:22`	Same thing with forge,,,,,shine edge,,,watch colors change,,,,they will run from light straw,to dark straw,,into blues......
Rich-Hale : `21:47:07`	But they will do this much quicker withforge,,,,remove and check often.. TEst with file like before............
Rich-Hale : `21:47:55`	If it gets away and gets way too soft,,,you may be able to reharden,,,,take to nonmagnetic,,quench and the temper or draw it again
Rich-Hale : `21:48:18`
Rich-Hale : `21:49:41`	After I quenched last time the metal had a nice blue color,,,Ileft it and just dressed the edge for a nice smooth but not real sharp cutting edge
Rich-Hale : `21:50:08`	I used a kind of blunt ten inch handle of hickory,,,,
Rich-Hale : `21:50:26`	Questions or suggestions?
J-J : `21:50:54`	Rich, we began with 1 1/2" wide stock. Finished , what is hieght at butt, at center of handle and at blade?
Rich-Hale : `21:52:03`	At blade,,,2 1/4" 1" at butt.
Rich-Hale : `21:54:29`	Also JJ with all tht bumping up of the stock,,,the butt is less than half an inchthick
Jock-D : `21:51:46`	Rich, I've had a number of questions about eye drifts, sizes, shapes, where you get them? :) Would you like to expand on "using an eye drift"?
Rich-Hale : `21:53:54`	Yes Jock,,,but I made this one real easy,,,a piece of one inch round stock,,,forged down a bit and tapered to the front for a bit of a pointy egg shape and i drove it right through,,,,,,,,,,,,
Steve2 : `21:53:46`	how far does the bit go into the head
Rich-Hale : `21:54:52`	Bit goes almost all the way backinto the eye
doug : `21:55:18`	Rich, When welding, it appears you insert the bit and heat after it is inserted. Do you flux the bit so there is flux between the bit and soft steel, or just on the outside?
Rich-Hale : `21:56:15`	Doug when you fit that bit in nice and tight,,,,take it to red color,,,,just flux the edges and it will go inside
Jock-D : `21:56:32`	The point about drifts is that you MAKE them before you start the job as part of your planning. You could have dozens of sizes and shapes depending on what you make in your shop.
J-J : `21:57:11`	I followed each demo step tonight with a piece of modeling clay 1" x 1" x 5" and a hammer. I now have a perfect clay axe head to the dimensions you gave :) these directions work.
Rich-Hale : `21:57:37`	Right Jock,,,another way for this piece is to roll the material around a drift as you finish the U bend,,,,i thought that would be extra trouble
Rich-Hale : `21:58:42`	Actuall the drift I used was a forming spike tha is used for concrete work...great idea JJ:)
Rich-Hale : `21:59:49`	With what we did here tonight you can make many similiar items.........
Bill : `22:00:38`	do you make your handels,or use store bought handels???
Rich-Hale : `22:00:39`	With what we did here tonight you can make many similiar items.........
Rich-Hale : `22:01:25`	And a short cut would be to tack the bitin place with a welder.........
Jock-D : `22:01:45`	Great job Rich! You covered several topics in one demo!
Rich-Hale : `22:02:26`	Thanks Jock,,,was way long but it neede to be,,,it also was a review of a lot of items that Bill has presented:)
J-J : `22:03:04`	Rich, do you dress the rasp's rough face prior to welding? And if not, ever had welds fail from the roughness holding in impurities?
Steve2 : `22:03:15`	will the magnet work with all steels
Bill : `22:05:04`	Most tool steel Steve (but not all)
T-boat : `22:03:35`	Can you do the same wrapped ax, with just a large horseshoeing rasp?
J-J : `22:05:48`	t-boat: heat treating would be much more tedius as you try and avoid getting the sides and butt to brittle, while still getting the blade tip hard enough.
Rich-Hale : `22:07:00`	T boat,,,That would look real nice ,,just flatten teh teeth so they did not hang up on everything....
Allen : `22:05:07`	for a good proofing magnet. go to farm/ranch store get a "cow" magnet.
Rich-Hale : `22:06:00`	JJ I flattened the rasp to sape it and most of the teeth went away.......
Mike : `22:07:04`	Rich, what oil do you prefer for quenching?
Jock-D : `22:07:45`	My tempil chart says the A2 point (non mag) is below the A3 point (hardenable) up to about 40 point carbon. Above that it is very close to the same but rises above 80 point carbon steel. In the blacksmith shop a lot of this is done by trial and error (test test test) especialy if you don't know the exact type of steel you are using.
Rich-Hale : `22:07:53`	Might be able to heat treat the blade with a coal forge,,,,
J-J : `22:09:28`	The problem is in quenching. You dip the tip into solution and it must be moved up and dwon or a fracture line will result. It takes some getting use to.
Rich-Hale : `22:09:28`	Mike,, I know that it gives off some foul stuff when heated,,and there are more suitable oils for the task,,,but I use drain oil from cars for quench...
Rich-Hale : `22:10:23`	Actually I think these would be welcomed by campers and hunters for gifts,,,,,,,,,
T-boat : `22:10:31`	This seems to get me a cold shoulder every time, but I use lump hardwood charcoal. Not just because I get it free but because it's my fuel of choice!
Rich-Hale : `22:10:59`	Like a lot of stuff we use,,,,coal for one,,,,don't breath the off gases......
Jock-D : `22:13:21`	T-boat, Nothing wrong with that. I give the "traditionalists" grief about using coal since it has only been popular for the last 150 years.
torin : `22:13:35`	Smiths didn't really switch over to coal until about 300 years ago when deforestation became a major problem back in Europe.