Some tools to drool over.  Image (c) 1998 Jock Dempsey WELCOME to the
Virtual Hammer-In!

This page is open to ALL for the purpose of advancing blacksmithing.

NOTE: This IS NOT the Guru page!

WHY THREE FORUMS? Well, this is YOUR blacksmithing forum to use for whatever you wish within the rules stated above. It is different than the Slack-Tub Pub because the messages are permanently posted and archived.

Our chat, the (Slack-Tub Pub), is immediate but the record of it temporary. Do not post permanent messages there. We refresh the "log" every couple days now and your message will be lost.

The Guru's Den is where I and several others try to answer ALL your questions to us.

Jock Dempsey -- guru at anvilfire.com - Monday, 07/27/98 & 03/01/99


looking for a 200+ hay&budden, Mikght have a custom power hammer to work out trade or possibly some other items.

mike kellerstrass -- lecka at prodigy.net - Sunday, 10/31/99 03:09:47 GMT


Since the anvilfire guru was kind enough to answer my question about safety while working with a smelting furnace and suggesting C.W. Ammen's book on casting.
I have searched the Web for this book and none have it.

Anyone out there know where I can get a copy of this book?

Thanks, Jim, New York Finger Lakes Region

Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Wednesday, 11/03/99 10:26:42 GMT


Jim,

Have you checked Amazon.com?
  • Bibliofind.com?
  • Lindsay Books?
  • Norm Larsen Books?
Failing at all of those, list a "want" with bibliofind.com
I've been very lucky with that route.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 11/03/99 13:43:12 GMT


To Jim Linzinger
Powells bookstore in Portland Or. has 3 different C.W. Ammens casting books in stock. there web site is www.powells.com. search under metal-foundary and forge or by author Ammen.

Clint -- bearsden at tdn.com - Wednesday, 11/03/99 19:48:44 GMT


is there a demo going on now and if so, how do i get to it.

ron - Thursday, 11/04/99 02:51:54 GMT


Ron, The demos are held Wednesday nights at 8:30 Central. If you click on the Slack-Tub status window in the upper right hand corner that will take you there. OR you can scroll down and there is a full menu below this box! In the near future we will have a special "class room" seperate from the Pub.

C.W. AMMEN Books can be found at Centaur Forge or Norm Larson Books.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 11/04/99 19:43:21 GMT


Hi to everyone!

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Friday, 11/05/99 00:15:55 GMT


Hello, I have a treddle hammer for sale in the Indiana area. I'm asking $500.00. It Is on my trailer now and for a fee I can deliver it. Please e-mail me to make an appointment to see it if you are interested. Thanks M.K.Jean

Stiffy -- Mklbjean at k-inc.com - Friday, 11/05/99 00:29:25 GMT


PS. I also have two swage blocks for sale. They are brand new casting. They have spoon and ladle patterns on both sides and patterns around the edges. E-mail for a time to inspect them. Am Asking $225 each. Thanks M.K. Jean

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Friday, 11/05/99 00:36:50 GMT


Just checking

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Friday, 11/05/99 02:16:14 GMT


would anyone have a set of plans for a double set of bellows as i cant find a set anywhere please

ubeatum -- ubeatum at yahoo.com. - Saturday, 11/06/99 09:56:56 GMT


ubeatum,

Beatum what? (grin)

I don't have any plans for a double bellows, but there are some pictures of the parts on the 21st Century page here at Anvilfire.
The Musuem that I work for was recently given a large double bellow that I'm going to have to re-build before they can be used. During the re-building process, I'll pull off a set of plans for posting here at Anvilfire.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 11/06/99 17:41:58 GMT


I bought a post vise today and thought maybe some of you out there would be interested to know the guy had 6 more for sale for $100.He's in Mesa Az.I saw the other vises and they were all in pretty good shape,one was missing a spring.His name is Ray Gordon his # is 480-984-3031,he also had two post drills for $50. and $75.

Dave Lookingbill -- davel at primenet.com - Sunday, 11/07/99 04:58:31 GMT


PawPaw,
I don´t need plans for bellows, have made a few, but do you know how get folds or creases in the leather right? There always seems to be to much leather somewhere in the bellows.

Olle Andersson -- utgaardaolle at ebox.tninet.se - Sunday, 11/07/99 19:19:25 GMT


Olle,

On the one bellows that I made, I cut the leather just a tad small when the bellows was fully open. Wasn't big enough for what I wanted, but didn't have a problem with the leather bunching up.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 11/07/99 21:49:55 GMT


hey every one :)
I am still looking for a reasonably priced Anvil about 130-150lbs. I am willing to spend $250.00 to $300.00 I am in the Portland Oregan area. Oh and Craig Shaefer If you happen upon this message I am still interested in your Anvil you have for sale Please get ahold of me Via email :) thanks every one

Flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Tuesday, 11/09/99 05:02:31 GMT


hey every one :)
I am still looking for a reasonably priced Anvil about 130-150lbs. I am willing to spend $250.00 to $300.00 I am in the Portland Oregan area. Oh and Craig Shaefer If you happen upon this message I am still interested in your Anvil you have for sale Please get ahold of me Via email :) thanks every one

Flora -- floralefray at netscape.net - Tuesday, 11/09/99 05:02:49 GMT


ubeatum,
If you can find a copy of "The Blacksmith,Ironworker and Farrier"by Aldren A. Watson It has an entire chapter on making a double lung bellows. I bought my copy from Centaur Forge.

Allen Hamm -- hammar at texoma.net - Tuesday, 11/09/99 20:28:55 GMT


RE: Books. Ammen's. Casting

Thanks to Jock D and Cline, and Papaw.. I had checked Powells without results but will now check under Metal Foundry etc.

Me and some of my internet friends are having terrible troubles with Webtv Email. Not getting any msg's.
I wrote to several of you fellows via Email offering some help with Lost Wax Casting but nery a reply. You may have written me and waiting for an answer but will have to wait until this internet problem clears.

Does Centour Forge or Norm Larson Books have an Email address where I can contact them? Of course after the big fellows at Webtv correct their software. You may give them mine.

I really like this Site. I wish I had discovered this earlier. I have been semi-retired and am almost thinking of opening my studio again. I get some inspiration from you people and then I can use the extra income.

Thanks to all, Jim Fingerlakes Region, New York

Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Tuesday, 11/09/99 20:33:50 GMT


I am extremely interested in metal forging, but unfortunately I am also extremely inexperienced.
The other day I went to a local hunting store and saw handmade knives and instantly wanted to try it. Could some one help me with a starting point. Knifes.com had a lot of helpful hints but no actual starting point. thanks

joe -- jandk at ecr.net - Wednesday, 11/10/99 00:13:23 GMT


I am extremely interested in metal forging, but unfortunately I am also extremely inexperienced.
The other day I went to a local hunting store and saw handmade knives and instantly wanted to try it. Could some one help me with a starting point. Knifes.com had a lot of helpful hints but no actual starting point. thanks

joe -- jandk at ecr.net - Wednesday, 11/10/99 00:13:57 GMT


Joe,

At the bottom of this page, click on Guru's Den. When you get to that page, at the top of the page, click on "Getting Started." You'll have more questions after you read through what is there, and it would be best if you ask them on the Guru's page. I'll try to answer them here for you, but the guru can answer most of the questions better than I can.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 11/10/99 04:31:06 GMT


Joe what do you want to know
where to find blades?? how to make them??
How to make handels?
i have made a lot of knives.
Not nearly as many as Mr meier but a few (250-300 I didn't number the first ones which was a mistake)
ask a more precise question and i think it wil be answered
kindly

OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 11/10/99 19:37:22 GMT


I have a Novelty Iron Works Power for sale. It is a 25 pounder and the guy I bought it from had it working in his shop. It is under shelter in my yard. The unique thing about this hammer is that it can be taken apart for cheaper shipping. It is not cast like the little giants and others. It is in good used shape. Approximate weight would be guessed at 1000-1200 pounds. The ram, anvil, upper mount can all be taken from the unit for shipping. Patent is May 5, 1903. Model is BOSS. I have been told that these hammers could be worth up to 2,000 dollars. I am only asking $975 for it and if I have a number of emails on it, I will have to sell it to the first $975. Buyer pays shipping. I have no way of shipping. Email me!

Ryan Wasson -- krw996s at mail.smsu.edu - Thursday, 11/11/99 20:36:42 GMT


Anyone know where I can buy some flint? I can't seem to find any around here, and I need several pieces to include in som flint and steel sets.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 11/12/99 15:15:48 GMT


Paw paw: mail me with regard to the flint I have some to spare (10-15kg or so). I wont be too expensive just supply and demand Say 200$/grain or thereabouts;-)
Seriously mail me I'll be reasonable (even if you take shipping costs into the bargain I will be competitive)


OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Friday, 11/12/99 19:38:08 GMT


OErjan,

Email on the way! THANKS!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 11/12/99 22:55:34 GMT


Jim Lininger - I sent e-mail about Lost Wax and have posted the addresses you are looking for several times. Look them up in the "Getting Started" article.

Value of "BOSS" hammer. Some popular small hammers sell in that price range but almost NOBODY has heard of your hammer except the folks that have read "Pounding Out the Profits". Folks are funny about buying a brand they know even though the most common old hammers are far from the best. I saw your hammer on e-Bay and it looks to be in fairly good condition. That model was not very popular when it was made and has some good features but I don't know how they perform. It will be a good deal for someone at the right price. . .

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 11/14/99 21:42:09 GMT


Hi,
I'm looking for a 150/200lb anvil. I live in the St. Paul/MPLS Mn. area. Oh Jim Lininger try looking for your book at abebooks.com. They deal with out of print books. They also are hooked up all over the USA by comp. When you do a search it goes east coast to west coast. Good luck
Bob

Bob Tjostelson -- randd at primenet.com - Monday, 11/15/99 01:25:08 GMT


My wife Pat & I are thinking of moving to somewhere on or close to the Chesapeake Bay-Maryland-. We have no children-she's the Blacksmith Artist and we are interested in finding an area where we can, if possible, find a house with a workshop for around $140,000. Neither one of us are very familar with the Chesapeake but we want to buy our last property and enjoy ourselves. We want very much to be around blacksmiths and woodworkers and other crafts/artist people. I am a bureaucrat and have more than enough of the suits during the day. We live in a suburb of Philly now and while we are happy we are tired of all the restrictions the suburbs put on a creative lifestyle. We would appreciate some recommendations as to places we should search for a home at.

Ken -- alchemy at bellatlantic.net - Tuesday, 11/16/99 14:15:39 GMT


Ken,

If you are thinking of retirement, the Piedmont region of North Carolina has a lot to offer. There are still many areas where your $140,00 will buy 1 or 2 acres of land with a nice house and plenty of room for a workshop. Contact me via e-mail if you are interested, and I'll gather up some real estate listings for you.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 11/16/99 15:00:52 GMT


Ken,

Maryland real estate is getting pricey, even on the eastern shore. I've been looking for acreage within an hour drive of Annapolis for over a year, and there really isn't much in that price range. If you're willing to live well outside the commuter zones of the Philly, DC, and Annapolis job markets, you can do OK for that money. I'd recommend trying in the Cambridge or Salisbury areas of the lower eastern shore. That's the most economical real estate that I've seen. In your price range, you'll have a very hard time buying a house with enough land for a shop on the western side of the Bay, unless you move way west, towards Hagerstown.

Mark Layton -- mlayton at arinc.com - Tuesday, 11/16/99 17:25:15 GMT


Ken,

I forget to mention: try realtor.com. You can search on the multiple listings for Maryland and get a good idea of what's on the market.

Mark Layton -- mlayton at arinc.com - Tuesday, 11/16/99 17:28:10 GMT


Ken:

Waterfront or inland? Critical differences on price and availability. I live in St. Mary's County, 60 miles south of DC and between the Patuxent, the bay and the Potomac. The Naval Air Station has been undergoing an expansion, and the *&^% boom is on. However, there's still some fair property to be had if you're diligent. One of my friends recently sold out his house and lands on the Eastern Shore. I'll post to him for his opinions and comments. Also, hit me off-net if you want some more candid opinions off-board.

Clear and cold on the banks of the lower Potomac, where the ticks, mosquitos and humidity tend to keep the riff-raff out. (We have our own riff-raff, thank you!)

Meteor showers tomorrow night!

Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Wednesday, 11/17/99 04:30:00 GMT


i am looking for a good suplier for coke.??
the closer to BC CANADA the better!!

shaun -- thetwigg at hotmail.com - Thursday, 11/18/99 00:52:05 GMT


i am looking for a good suplier for coke.??
the closer to BC CANADA the better!!

shaun -- thetwigg at hotmail.com - Thursday, 11/18/99 00:52:32 GMT


Pleese DON'T MAIL ME FOR FLINT ALL I COULD SPARE IS GONE.
I have had several leters (~12-15 a day since last posting) asking for flint and I have none to sell.
I HAD JUST TAT LOT AND NO MORE sorry for shouting.
i finaly realise what an inpact INTERNET has as a medium.

OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Thursday, 11/18/99 23:08:53 GMT


I am going to make a knife out of ATS-34 stainless. But due to the fact that I am a beginner knife maker I dont know how to go about hardening and tempering it. Is there anyone that can help me,please?

J.Doyle -- jdoyle at telepak.com - Friday, 11/19/99 05:30:59 GMT


J.Doyle, Stainless is not something for the timmid or under equiped to heattreat. Many knifemakers leave the heattreating up to professionals. Give them the material, the specs and how hard YOU think you want it. Temperature control is critical. If you don't have pyrometers for your furnaces or salt pot then you are in trouble.

Check out Don Fogg's web site for techniques and equipment. See our links page for the address.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 11/19/99 14:56:37 GMT


ARCHIVES: THose of you looking for April through October Hammer-In archives, I finaly posted them!

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 11/21/99 17:05:22 GMT


While browsing at an antique store today, the dealers mentioned that when they were young, the water from a blacksmith's slack tub was used as a home remedy for poison ivy. Has anyone else ever heard of that? Or were they pulling my leg?

John Nash -- Trkrjnash at aol.com - Sunday, 11/21/99 23:22:38 GMT


John,

Has anyone else ever heard of it? Yep!

Were they pulling your leg? Dunno.

I've heard of other things it was used for. Motly part of the "mystical" beliefs about smiths and smithing.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 11/22/99 12:53:31 GMT


I am looking for tools for precious metal pieces. Any resource would be helpful. Thanks DR

Don -- dreed1 at mediaone.net - Monday, 11/22/99 15:30:51 GMT


Don, Some jewler types may have better sources but Centaur Forge carries a line of stakes and hammers for sheet metal work. If the size is right these are the tools you want.

The only difference between common metal working tools and those for precious metals is their surface finish. In working soft metals you need a polished work surface. Most craftspeople refinish their stakes and hammers as needed. Even if you start with finely polished tools they don't stay that way so you should be prepared to refinish in any case. Even blacksmiths prefer a good finish on their tools. It just doesn't need to be a high polish like it does for other work.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Monday, 11/22/99 15:45:47 GMT


hello I'm new at blacksmithing and I'm trying to find a good set of plans for a hammer.

Robert -- rbmm at wcc.net - Tuesday, 11/23/99 03:04:16 GMT


Robert,

Get a large rock, use a green stick to bore a hole in the rock by apinning the stick back and forth between your palms. Then tie the stick in the hole and ....


Seriously, What kind of hammer? If you mean a treadle hammer, ABANA sells a set of plans. You can find a link to ABANA on the links page here at anvilfire.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 11/23/99 15:31:25 GMT


Just wanted to wish everbody a happy turkey bird day. toby

toby -- Bokoshe at aol.com - Thursday, 11/25/99 12:54:46 GMT


Beginner looking for 125 to 150 lb. good condition anvil in St Louis, MO or Huntsville, AL area for delivery. Can also be contacted at rickmeyerj at peoavn.redstone.army.mil

Jay Rickmeyer -- jammeyer at gateway.net - Thursday, 11/25/99 14:58:29 GMT


Hello to all of you on "Anvile Fire"
I am very appreciative of you and your advise and help.
I offered to all of you my years of experience in my specaial field, which is related, but not specifially blacksmithing. I have been working mostly with precious metals and only resorted to iron working when I wanted to make or to temper tools.

I offered any help or assistance to anyone who needed me. I found a couple in Australia who seemed interested and needed some help. It has been so long
between msg's that I fear that my efforts and intrest in them is lost. I will not mention who it is. But if you have no more interest than you have shown , I am waisting my time and you do not deserve my imput. I am a former teacher and I expect a student to respond, even with the most elementary questions, but I cannot tolerate no attention. If the party reads this... You can not count on me to respond. Your neglect only shows me that you have no real interest in succeding in any form of perfecting your abilities applicable to the craft.

If there is any person out there who is sincere, and you must show an interest, I am ready to help. Do not give me a "Snow Job" I've been there before and I do not need it.

Thanks to all who are positive and helpful persons. Boo on those who are just being bothersome.

Regrets, Jim, Finger Lakes, New York

Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Thursday, 11/25/99 19:25:52 GMT


i have many blacksmith tools dating to 1800's. tin/sheetmetal tools also. cone mandrel, pipe vise, ladle spoon mold, hammers, tongs, hardies, spring dividers,holdfast,swages,fullers,punches,etc,etc..many misc items. e-mail me, w/subject heading blacksmith3 located in westchester county N.Y.

gary litt -- saintazure2 at aol.com - Saturday, 11/27/99 02:24:30 GMT


for sale 2 anvils 200lB fisher london pattern anvil ;300 dollars 125 pound wrought forged anvil english maker 155 dollars both nice shape also have leg vices ,forges,drill press

nick mobley -- nicks anvil at aol.com - Sunday, 11/28/99 23:31:38 GMT


Is anyone out there using a Johnson 122 or 133 gas forge? I'd like to hear how they holding up, ease of use, if they get hot enough for forge welding, and any other comments. I find the design intriguing.

Mark Layton -- mlayton at arinc.com - Tuesday, 11/30/99 20:18:53 GMT


I am new too blacksmithing but do have a little know-how of gas welding and arc .i have made a couple of things plant hangers and sign post,but would like to make a forge from a wood coal stove by cutting and placeing a two inch flex (steel) pipe in the bottom and feed air thru speed controlled fan and also fire the coal by gas but run on coal for the forge. what do you think will it work and is it thr correct way to build a forge!

jwf -- johngail at worldnet.att.net - Wednesday, 12/01/99 01:52:29 GMT


I am new too blacksmithing but do have a little know-how of gas welding and arc .i have made a couple of things plant hangers and sign post,but would like to make a forge from a wood coal stove by cutting and placeing a two inch flex (steel) pipe in the bottom and feed air thru speed controlled fan and also fire the coal by gas but run on coal for the forge. what do you think will it work and is it thr correct way to build a forge!

jwf -- johngail at worldnet.att.net - Wednesday, 12/01/99 01:53:24 GMT


WHY two diferent fuels??
i would say either coal or gas.
a simple coal forge is to be found on this site and a few more plans if you go to my link page(http://www.angelfire.com/ca/pokerbacken/bookmark.html#T18)
and there you will find Ron Reils site as well (a verry good page for gas forges)
hope this answers some of your Questions.
if not ask again and you wil get a better answer by someone.
kindly

OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 12/01/99 11:53:16 GMT


Given the choice, go for solid (coal, charcoal) fuel.. it will always be available. If you can burn coal/coke, you can use charcoal. Gas? Yes, real convenient, no muss, no fuss (can be EXPLOSIVE! sometimes) and easy to light/maintain... but, kinda high tech in supply, no? Also, IMHO it (gas) makes way too much noise for me to wanna work with it all day. I vote for solid fuel. For small work (Not welding) those fake 'charcoal' briquettes work so-so. Not too bad for the occasional blade or similar item.

Uncle Goodcrank -- production_wheel at yahoo.com - Saturday, 12/04/99 19:34:46 GMT


Does anyone know where I can find a 200# anvil for a reasonable price in the Mobile Al.area? I can go up to $400 and I will come and get it within 100 miles.Thanks.

V.E.Haugen -- oddcoupl at gulftel.com - Sunday, 12/05/99 06:10:35 GMT


Don: you asked about tools for working with precious metals. There are several suppliers: Rio Grande.com is one and another is Southwestern Smelting & Refining.( I didn't find a web-site) but they are in Texas and are in phone book.

The suggested approach to building your tool box would be to begin first with basic tools such as jewelers saw, small needle (sweedish) files. etc. Any good book on the subject will list them. Many you can get at your local hdw. store. Then as you decide on what you intend to make, you will need certain tools to work with that technique. There are many different tools that are designed to accomplish different techniques. Many of the tools can be made and some of them almost have to be purchased because of the processes not available to an individual. There are methods of forging, construction, reposee',stone-setting, chaseing, and on and on. It all depends on which direction you wish to go. Buy or make them as you will anticipate the need. Rock Shops often have metal working tools too. Email me with your intentions and I can better help you.

Jim Lininger -- imgems at webtv.net - Wednesday, 12/08/99 11:24:11 GMT


Anyone have an email address or catalog phone no. for leather aprons? I've been using a split leg farrier apron next to a coal forge a little too long... set myself on fire yesterday. Tried to pour the slack bucket on myself to put it out, forgot about the billet I was welding, knocked it off the anvil, stepped on it and melted the heel off my boot. Turned the air blue, limped back to the house, put on dry clothes. Still need a new apron.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Thursday, 12/09/99 03:45:09 GMT


try a welding supply place.

other than that I kan sadly help with Swedish addresses only.
Kindly OErjan

OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Thursday, 12/09/99 07:12:48 GMT


Mike,
Is there a leather supply store in the area? If so get a piece and make your own. Othewise I think OErjan is right, go to a weld shop.
Also farrier supply places may have regular smithing aprons.

Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Thursday, 12/09/99 15:29:50 GMT


Does anybody know when the pub is going to be back up?

torin -- torin at primenet.com - Friday, 12/10/99 00:36:23 GMT


Thirsty regulars mill around the Pub door, smoking and swearing, which they can't do inside(in theory). Kiwi, save this already irascable mob from further degradation and open up the door. Help make the information hiway safe for children once again..........Pete

P-F -- artgawk at thegrid.net - Friday, 12/10/99 06:38:38 GMT


Hello, I have two, chest to knees blacksmith aprons, c/w pockets, straps, split legs, $100.00. One apron, chest to thighs, no split legs, pockets $75.00. One apron, waist to thighs, $45.00. All are brand new, cowhide (grey, but can be dyed), brass hardware. Custom fitting and orders are welcome. MERRY CRISPNESS!!!

Neil Gustafson -- swedefiddle at urbanweb.net - Friday, 12/10/99 07:06:23 GMT


I was able to get (partway) in using this address http://www.wildstar.net/~kiwi/chat/ and it is like the 'no frames' version, but it doesn't have the log.

torin -- torin at primenet.com - Friday, 12/10/99 07:37:22 GMT


I have a brand new no.25 kettle for sale ,it has 6 in. legs and a dutch oven style lid, it is preseasoned. It holds approx. 75 quarts of liquid. If interested please e-mail me.

Stiffy -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Friday, 12/10/99 20:56:19 GMT


flora, I found 225lb anvil, new... from a place called Axwman's in Missoula, MT... Delivered they are $375.00

Dreamsmith -- rndyprks at aol.com - Friday, 12/10/99 22:01:57 GMT


I'm looking for an old hand-crank blower. Any ideas?

Ken -- kboone at juno.com - Saturday, 12/11/99 13:54:38 GMT


Ken,

Not knowing where you are makes it a little difficult to answer, but as a start, join your local ABANA chapter. Some of the other loacl blacksmiths may have one for sale. Failing that, almost every blacksmiths convention or hammerin, some of the tailgaters have them for sale.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 12/11/99 14:22:27 GMT


iwould like to meat other smiths

aprentice David - Sunday, 12/12/99 01:12:00 GMT


iwould like to meat other smiths

aprentice David - Sunday, 12/12/99 01:12:39 GMT


Mike..Centaur Forge carries aprons in their catalogue. Click the "links" on this website for their info. I think the catalogue is $5 US but worth it.

V.E Haugen..Also click "links" and look for the Alabama chapter of ABANA. There are probably smiths near your area that will be glad to help...or scroll up and see Nick Mobley's post. Shipping from Ohio to Ala. by freight isnt too bad. I shipped a 260# anvil from Ohio to Jax. Fla, using Old Dominion for around $140.

Randall Guess -- rdguess at bellsouth.net - Monday, 12/13/99 01:15:32 GMT


I have a blacksmith cone that stands 51-1/2" tall and is 11" at the bottom of the taper. The base is 13-1/2" in diameter. I have had it for over 25 years and am looking to sell it for $500. If interested please respond.

Tom -- creativetoll at tsi-online.com - Monday, 12/13/99 13:56:36 GMT


Jock-- Do you or any of your sources/aides/readers/cohorts know how to reach the manufacturer of Hoke torches? These are small oxygen- natural gas or oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane (so listed in supplier catalogs) jewelry-making torches. My question is, are they all the same body and you just change tips, or does the oxy-acetylene one have a stronger construction so it doesn't melt down at the brazes, if THINGS GO WRONG or what?
And, a bulletin: same beautiful sister-in-law who quit silversmithing and gave me the torch also gave me a Uniweld propane regulator. Local oxy-acetylene dealer sez it'll handle acetylene safely. I checked Uniweld and engineer there says, yeah, BUT: it'll feed higher than 15psig, so could be dangerous. Asked if dealer correct that acetylene hose OK for propane. Engineer said NO!!! Propane disintegrates acetylene hose. Needs to be R (as in Roger) grade hose to be safe.

John Neary -- jneary at roadrunner.com - Tuesday, 12/14/99 02:14:34 GMT


apprentice David,
Need to know where in the world you are. Chances are pretty good there are smiths in area you are in.

Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Tuesday, 12/14/99 19:33:08 GMT


ralph :I mised to answer a question from you on the pub yesturday
ralph :Work blades or more fanciful type?
OErjan:I do mostly working blades (read all but a few).They are allmost all specialty blades for crafts persons, everything from trimming knives for a shoemaker (a blade somewhere around 15-20mm long and 8-15mm wide) to adzes (80mm wide)
I guess I have answered your question now:-)
CU

OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Wednesday, 12/15/99 11:21:10 GMT


Needing tools for anvil, chizels etc .. Can anyone sent me a source....

Lundy Cearlock -- Lundy_cearlock at illinova.com - Wednesday, 12/15/99 16:40:45 GMT


Anybody know where I can take welding classes in the Santa Clara Valley (South San Francisco Bay Area)? I've been digging through the community college Web sites but they pretty much concentrate on digital technology, instead of steel.
Thanks, Phetsy

Phetsy Calderon -- phetsy at earthlink.net - Thursday, 12/16/99 00:40:02 GMT


I have heard that the College Of San Mateo (right off 92 between 280 and 101) has an excellent welding program. I've never checked, maybe its been replaced by Autocad classes or something.

Philippe Habib -- phabib at well.com - Thursday, 12/16/99 18:01:12 GMT


Correction: couple days ago I posted here word from a Uniweld engineer that type R hose, and not acetylene hose, should be used for propane. Today I found on the Compressed Gas Association home page this safety bulletin:Do - Select welding hose that meets Rubber Manufacturers Association
and Compressed Gas Association standards in the size and grade
suitable for both the conditions and gases being used. Grades R & RM are
designated for acetylene use only. Grade T may be used with all fuel gases.
So I called Uniweld back and askedd again and an engineer this time told me that R does break down in time with propane, and that T as in toenails should be used, especially in cold climates. Sorry.

John Neary -- jneary at roadrunner.com - Thursday, 12/16/99 22:00:26 GMT


Any of you folks still having trouble getting into the Pub, your OLD bookmarks won't work on the new server. EVERYTHING is here on the anvilfire server now. Please let me know if you are still haveing trouble.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 12/16/99 22:37:45 GMT


Hi everyone,
I have posted this before and I'm sure I will post it AGAIN!!!
I'm looking for a 150/200lb anvil. I live in the St. Paul, Mpls MN. area. If you have one for sale or know somebody in my area that might please e-mail me!!!
Thanks
Bob

Bob Tjostelson -- randd at primenet.com - Friday, 12/17/99 02:04:17 GMT


Hi everyone,
I have posted this before and I'm sure I will post it AGAIN!!!
I'm looking for a 150/200lb anvil. I live in the St. Paul, Mpls MN. area. If you have one for sale or know somebody in my area that might please e-mail me!!!
Thanks
Bob

Bob Tjostelson -- randd at primenet.com - Friday, 12/17/99 02:05:11 GMT


I'm looking for a good #200+ ANVIL. Urgent!

Antonio Passalacqua -- apass at prodigy.net.mx - Tuesday, 12/21/99 00:40:17 GMT


I'm looking for a good forged #200+ ANVIL. Urgent!

Antonio Passalacqua -- apass at prodigy.net.mx - Tuesday, 12/21/99 00:41:31 GMT


I'm looking for a good forged #200+ ANVIL. Urgent!

Antonio Passalacqua -- apass at prodigy.net.mx - Tuesday, 12/21/99 00:42:08 GMT


Next couple of days are going to be heavily family, with kids of all ages stopping by. So I may not be around as much as usual. Just in case I don't get back in time;

Thanks to all of you for a good year. The guys and gals that hang out at Anvilfire are a great bunch of folks. There've been some difficult times this year, and all of you have helped make them bearable.

If you don't have an Anvilfire hat yet, think REAL seriously about
ordering one. I've worn mine out about three times so far and had nice
compliments every time. This is a CLASS product, and worth every penny
the guru is asking for it. I may have to get another one, just to make sure that I have a clean one at all times.

Jock, you're a good friend. I'm glad we met.

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!!!

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 12/24/99 04:31:44 GMT


MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!
form Sweden:-)

OErjan -- pokerbacken at angelfire.com - Friday, 12/24/99 10:26:51 GMT


I recently purchaced a Fisher double screw leg vice with 7" jaws. Is in great shape(original paint, ect). Any guess what it's worth. Just curious. Also looking for hammmers,hardies,a forge or an anvil. Any leads are appreciated, I am in Springfield, Mo. and may be will to do some tool trades.

Mike -- lecka at prodigy.net - Sunday, 12/26/99 04:44:04 GMT


Happy Holidays to all and PEACE on earth. M. Jean and Family

Mike -- mklbjean at k-inc.com - Sunday, 12/26/99 06:13:14 GMT


I recently purchased an anvil at a swap meet. On one side it is stamped 1 2 3 on the other side it is stamped "JPOWEDT - LATE HILL FIRM" Does this give me any clue to manufacturer or age? Should there be a manufacturing date stamp on anvil?

Thanks

Andy -- ashaiman at aol.com - Monday, 12/27/99 12:05:01 GMT


I am trying to restore an old model 210 portable forge made by the Buffalo Forge Company. I don't even know if this company still exists. I don't know how old the forge is. It was my grandfather's. Any advice out there?

jeff fogel -- onehorse at totalnetnh.net - Monday, 12/27/99 15:36:22 GMT


All,

Junk Yard Hammers,

You guys better get started! I started building the frame for mine yesterday. I'd hate to win the contest by defualt, but I *DO* intend to win! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Tuesday, 12/28/99 17:01:02 GMT


John,

Around here forge water is used to cure warts

P.J. Conlan -- pjconlan at eircom.net - Tuesday, 12/28/99 19:14:40 GMT


I'm having trouble finding a place that carries a supply of charcoal anywhere near me any suggestions. Candia,NH

Leroy -- pvtmjr at aol.com - Thursday, 12/30/99 18:52:42 GMT


Leroy,

I've got plans for a charcoal retort so that you could make your own, if you wish. If you'd like a copy, drop me a line.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 12/31/99 04:04:31 GMT


I'm looking to set up a blacksmithing shop, any suggestions (anvils, suppliers, etc.)?

Justin -- litllam at aol.com - Saturday, 01/01/00 03:47:38 GMT


Hi all, here's a kind of unusual idea: I have a complete smithing setup, all the tools and equipment including 4 anvils ranging up to 320lb, 50" cone, swages blocks, power hammer, power hacksaw, forges, 5 post vises etc etc and all the hand tools, but am in need of that hard to find commodity: SPACE. If anyone wants to get into, or continue with smithing and has no equipment I would partner with him (/her) (gotta be pc here in the bay area). You provide the space, I provide a complete equipment setup. Would have to be about 45min drive max. from
Palo Alto, that's near Stanford University. I guess a smithy doesn't require all that much space, have to keep everything pretty close the the fire. Anyway, thought I'd run it by the group.
Happy New Year to all
Max

Max -- jaguar at best.com - Saturday, 01/01/00 07:47:09 GMT


Hi all, here's a kind of unusual idea: I have a complete smithing setup, all the tools and equipment including 4 anvils ranging up to 320lb, 50" cone, swages blocks, power hammer, power hacksaw, forges, 5 post vises etc etc and all the hand tools, but am in need of that hard to find commodity: SPACE. If anyone wants to get into, or continue with smithing and has no equipment I would partner with him (/her) (gotta be pc here in the bay area). You provide the space, I provide a complete equipment setup. Would have to be about 45min drive max. from
Palo Alto, that's near Stanford University. I guess a smithy doesn't require all that much space, have to keep everything pretty close the the fire. Anyway, thought I'd run it by the group.
Happy New Year to all
Max

Max -- jaguar at best.com - Saturday, 01/01/00 07:47:25 GMT


Jock: I am a long time apprentice to the process of metal fabricating and have lately added a wire welder to my shop. I often use the welder to make a number of short welds that need to be well placed and neatly done. My boys gave me a Christmas gift of $$ toward an auto darkening welding mask so I am ready to go shopping, but the only thing I know about them is how they work, and it really looks slick to me. Any advice or direction on auto-darkening lenses? Are theys safe? Are there good buys or good sources, necessary features?? I will appreciate any information anyone can provide.
Thanks. Don Agostine



Don Agostine -- agostine at nwidt.com - Saturday, 01/01/00 14:57:02 GMT


Max,

Why not build yourself a forge trailer? That way you don't have to have enough land to build a shop building, just an extra parking spot.

Second thought. Lots of the temporary storage places will rent you a space for fairly small change. Store the equipment in there, and use that area for a shop as well.

Don,

Check with your local welding supplier for his reccomendations,
See if MorSafe makes one, the rest of their equipment seems to be very well made.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 01/01/00 15:59:20 GMT


Paw Paw

I am new to smithing and was wondering about that charcoal retort that you mentioned previously. Could you possibly give me some info on that one please?

Thanks in advance..

Mike W. -- LordAxe at NetScape.Net - Saturday, 01/01/00 17:56:12 GMT


Paw Paw

I am new to smithing and was wondering about that charcoal retort that you mentioned previously. Could you possibly give me some info on that one please?

Thanks in advance..

Mike W. -- LordAxe at NetScape.Net - Saturday, 01/01/00 17:56:44 GMT


Looking for air power hammer prefer ir-54 model contact me at (914)668-4000 ask for frank thank-you

Frank russo -- www.dutchess forge.com - Sunday, 01/02/00 15:14:50 GMT


SELF DARKENING LENS: Don, my experiance with one was about 15 years ago and I didn't like it. I could always see "spots" from the initial arc and those floating around were distracting to me. I figured if I could see them it wasn't good. It was a $125 waste of good money.

They still sell them and I expect there has been some progress in the technology. I haven't tried a new one but if I had the same experiance I would return it. Get a good LOCAL warantee from your welding supplier.

AN OPTION: Try bright lights over your welding area. In bright sunlight you can see fairly well through #10 and #12 shades. In the shop you normally see nothing until you strike an arc. A few flood lights positioned properly is a lot less expensive and the low tech approach is less likely to fail.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 01/02/00 18:25:07 GMT


Perhaps i've finally come to the right place since you are the guys who make this stuff! I've been searching the net for weeks looking for a retail source for wrought iron table bases, very plain and inexpensive, to hold mosaic table tops, which will be made to fit the metal frames. I'm in Hawaii, so a west coast source would be great. Outdoor use, round or square, probably coffee table heighth. Thanks!!

N. Kele -- kele_hi at yahoo.com - Sunday, 01/02/00 22:16:48 GMT


Auto darkening lens, I have one and I call it the welding helmet with a dash board. On mine I can control sensitivity,delay and darkness, most of which I keep to the max. I think that you could add lenses to make it even darker so that you don't have the arc ghosts that the guru mentions. Sometimes my shop lights set it off so I end up doing the old head flick anyway. On a tool like this buy the best brand you can and don't drop it,quick way to flush $200.more or less.

Pete -- Ravnstudio at aol.com - Sunday, 01/02/00 22:36:41 GMT


Welding helmets.

When I bought my little MIG, it came with a welding helmet. A cheap piece of junk actually. Just before Christmas, I decided that I'd put up with it long enough.

I'd talked to several different guys who had or who had had the auto-darkening lens. They all (every one!) mentioned the same problems that the guru did with after images.

I decided that I didn't need that problem, so I just got a better helmet, and got one that has a flip up lens. That way, I don't have to raise and lower the whole helmet.

Now if I can just break myself of the head flick habit! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 01/03/00 03:00:09 GMT


I have one of those auto helments. I love it. Mine works on a solar panel and clicks to # 14 lense very fast. No battarys or switches to play with. Worth $400.00 when I got it. Cold up here in North Bay Ont Canada..Chow for now..

Barney the Blacksmith -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Monday, 01/03/00 19:47:20 GMT


I've got an automatic helmet and I love it. It was a $300 helmet so that may explain why I have no problem with the ghosts. It was a lot easier learning to TIG weld when I could see what I was doing.

Philippe Habib -- phabib at well.com - Monday, 01/03/00 22:52:44 GMT


I've got an automatic helmet and I love it. It was a $300 helmet so that may explain why I have no problem with the ghosts. It was a lot easier learning to TIG weld when I could see what I was doing.

Philippe Habib -- phabib at well.com - Monday, 01/03/00 22:54:15 GMT


Greetings, This summer I did some work as a blacksnith at a reconstructed fur trade post. This was mostly wroght iron work making things like nails, firepokers etc I have, since then become quite interested in making knives as a hobby in my spare time. In my reading I have found information about how to make handles how to do etching how to make sheaths etc, my only problem is that when it comes to making the blade all od the instructions that I have been able to find are in reference to simply cutting out a flat peice of steel and grinding a blade out of it. I was wondering where I might be able to get information/instruction about making blades with a forge & hammer

much thanks Graeme Ross

Graeme Ross -- wross at norlink.net - Tuesday, 01/04/00 19:36:04 GMT


Hello?

keyla ice -- keylaice at hotmail.com - Wednesday, 01/05/00 14:32:43 GMT


hello, my name is ben carpenter. I am a juniorand a metalsmithing and jewlery major at the Maine college of art, studing under Tim McCreight and Allen Perry. Unfortunally there is no blacksmithing at my school despite its great metals program. I am looking for a summer apprenticeship in a blacksmith's shop. I am not completly ignorant of the the craft. I have done several workshops all over the east coast, including Peters Valley and up at Haystack with Doug Wilson. This really is the life that I want to get into, but am having some difficulty finding education outside of the weekend workshops. If anyone has an apprenticeship, or shop assistant position open for this upcomming summer, please concider me.
Benjamin Carpenter
C/O Metalsmithing dept.
Maine College Of Art
Portland ,Me 04101
(207) 874-1946
vitaminc at mindspring.com
thank you

benjamin carpenter -- vitaminc at mindspring.com - Wednesday, 01/05/00 23:56:16 GMT


//

pat - Thursday, 01/06/00 02:27:48 GMT


Don

I use an auto mask at work and think it's great. Good control over the start of the weld and two hands free from the start or alternatelt, no whiplash as you're about to weld. It is similar to Barney's and have no problems with ghost images. Being in Australia, the brand name wouldn't be of much use to you, but hunt around and ask to use one before buying, you will be looking at some expense so it's only fair you should try before you buy.

richard stein -- ironstein at atnet.net.au - Thursday, 01/06/00 15:14:18 GMT


hi guys,
I am a maintenance fitter at a manufacturing plant and have just about got my forge set up. I have been collecting bearings(roller) for some time now, in preparation for the commissioning. My intention is to make knives and progress to swords. Does anyone out there know, off hand, what sort of carbon content I will have with the bearings. Is that content consistent between the rollers and the races. Would chain (of the sprocket variety) be of any value to me. And finally does anyone have tips on forging bronze(gunmetal) bushes into billets?

P.S. Happy new year and I look forward to a long and helpful relationship with you all.

richard stein -- ironstein at atnet.net.au - Thursday, 01/06/00 15:24:15 GMT


Richard,

An awful lot of bearing races are case hardened. I'm not sure what the steel is, but I've heard 5100 mentioned. I'm NOT positive about that, so don't quote me. I'll forward your question to the guru, and get him to check it for you.

Paw Paw Wilson - Friday, 01/07/00 05:13:43 GMT


RICHARD: Those bearings are most often 52100 steel. Some types are other alloys that are case hardened as PawPaw mentioned and can cause you a lot of grief. IF you stack them up in enough layers you get a type of laminated steel.

Some guys make knives out of cable and roller chain. I don't recommend it for edges but it makes intresting body patterns in a multipiece blade. . . The guys that are big into this particular variety of blade like them made from parts of THEIR Harley or THEIR landrover. . . Don't want no (*&()*) coal stoker chain. . :)

My standard advise on using scrap material is test test test. If you don't know what it is then YOU have to play metalurgist.

Well I'm glad everyone thing the self dimming weld helments have gotten better. I'll have to test one sometime. . . And at todays prices increasing the ambient light is a LOT cheaper and a LOW tech solution.

Jock Dempsey -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Friday, 01/07/00 05:31:18 GMT


I thought I remembered somebody doing a Norfolk latch for the iForge page, but I can't find it. Anybody got a quick sketch for a memory jogger? Got an order for one last night.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Friday, 01/07/00 09:52:01 GMT


Paw Paw:
The guru has a picture of a latch he made in his chapter on preventing corrosion. I believe however that what he has as a Norfolk latch may in fact be a Suffolk latch. A Norfolk latch generaly has a plate similiar to an escutcheon(sp?) that the pull mounts to. I don't know that it would make a great deal of difference to the cutomer but on the other hand it might. "Early American wrought Iron" by Albert Sonn has beacoup examples of both types and should be available through your library or thru ABANA. My apologies to the guru if I am wrong.

David White -- dwhite at siumed.edu - Friday, 01/07/00 22:28:03 GMT


Paw Paw:
The guru has a picture of a latch he made in his chapter on preventing corrosion. I believe however that what he has as a Norfolk latch may in fact be a Suffolk latch. A Norfolk latch generaly has a plate similiar to an escutcheon(sp?) that the pull mounts to. I don't know that it would make a great deal of difference to the cutomer but on the other hand it might. "Early American wrought Iron" by Albert Sonn has beacoup examples of both types and should be available through your library or thru ABANA. My apologies to the guru if I am wrong.

David White -- dwhite at siumed.edu - Friday, 01/07/00 22:28:26 GMT


I want to build a bellows for my forge. Could I use canvas instead of leather. Is this possible or should I spend my time more creatively?

Joe -- jmarshok at dellnet.com - Saturday, 01/08/00 02:03:32 GMT


David,

Started sketching last night. Your reminder about Early American Wrought Iron" told me where I had seen what I was looking for. I reviewed the darn book! (CRS is really getting to me) I'll go to the library tomorrow, but I think I've sketched it out already. Thanks for the reminder.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 01/08/00 02:05:22 GMT


Joe,

Canvas would work very well, too porus. OTOH, if you can find a bunch of wild Nauga's in the area, Naugahide works well. (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 01/08/00 02:08:54 GMT


Joe,

That was supposed to say that canvas WOULDN'T work very well. Now you know why I'm not a secretary! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 01/08/00 15:04:30 GMT


Have a punch,between 60 and 90 T.,for sale.

grizzly burton -- grizz59 at juno.com - Monday, 01/10/00 22:36:11 GMT


I am in the process of buying a home in RI in a neighborhood. Has anyone had problems operating a small coal-burning forge close to other houses? Would a gas forge be better or would I be unable to weld? I am just starting to learn blacksmithing,so I have little experience with the differant types of forging available. Thanks for any advice I can get on this subject.

John Nash -- Trkrjnash at aol.com - Tuesday, 01/11/00 14:42:41 GMT


I am in the process of buying a home in RI in a neighborhood. Has anyone had problems operating a small coal-burning forge close to other houses? Would a gas forge be better or would I be unable to weld? I am just starting to learn blacksmithing,so I have little experience with the differant types of forging available. Thanks for any advice I can get on this subject.

John Nash -- Trkrjnash at aol.com - Tuesday, 01/11/00 14:43:26 GMT


I live in the burbs where the lots are 50 feet wide. I have been very lucky to have tolerant neighbors. One ran over when he saw the smoke to warn us the house was on fire. The one next door and downwind has never complained. A third came over and told me how she enjoys the smell because it reminds her of when she was a girl on the farm. Another is an artist and wants to come over and make something.

I think the biggest factor is probably how much good will you've accumulated with your neighbors in the rest of your life. If they like you, they'll put up with a few hours of stink. If you, or they, are jerks, they won't.

Philippe Habib -- phabib at well.com - Tuesday, 01/11/00 21:17:13 GMT


I live in the burbs where the lots are 50 feet wide. I have been very lucky to have tolerant neighbors. One ran over when he saw the smoke to warn us the house was on fire. The one next door and downwind has never complained. A third came over and told me how she enjoys the smell because it reminds her of when she was a girl on the farm. Another is an artist and wants to come over and make something.

I think the biggest factor is probably how much good will you've accumulated with your neighbors in the rest of your life. If they like you, they'll put up with a few hours of stink. If you, or they, are jerks, they won't.

Philippe Habib -- phabib at well.com - Tuesday, 01/11/00 21:17:25 GMT


I really appreciate the comments on auto-darkening welding helmets. I am trying out a couple of the units, and trying some of the alternatives mentioned. It is really great to be able to get actual first hand comments. It's a wonderful thing.

Don A.

Don Agostine -- agostine at nwidt.com - Wednesday, 01/12/00 02:06:25 GMT


hello..does any one know how to forge an apple from a pipe??

scotsman -- albagobragh99 at yahoo.com - Wednesday, 01/12/00 02:23:26 GMT


What is the better carbon content for knife making .55, .75, or .95%. I am looking at using metal removal method and then heat treating, until I get my forge up and running. I can easily purchase 1055 steel but having trouble sourceing .75 & .95% steels from local suppliers (Gold Coast Australia) any tips on sourcing these high carbon steels? Any junk yard items that fit the bill?

richard stein -- ironstein at atnet.net.au - Wednesday, 01/12/00 10:55:49 GMT


Hi,
I was wondering if anyone had any information on where to order screening used to make fireplace screens with. I was told that 8 mesh
is standard with a .028 wire diameter in plain steel. Is that correct?
I don't like the look of hardware cloth I prefer the look of something finer like a heavy duty door screen. If anyone has any resources I would be grateful.
Thanks
Rachel

Rachel -- firechick_87557 at yahoo.com - Wednesday, 01/12/00 15:02:07 GMT


Rachel:

You might try the following supplier for firescreen:

McNichols co. 1-800-237-3820
Marietta, Ga or Charlotte, N.C.

Phil -- rosche at dogbert.aticorp.org - Thursday, 01/13/00 12:52:30 GMT


Carbon Content for Knives; Richard:

Best carbon content depends on what you're making, and what you plan to use it for. 55 points is good for big Bowie knives and swords, 95 points is good for a tight, sharp whittling blade or skinning knife. The trade off is toughness vs. hardness. If youre making a survival knife or something to pry open a door in an emergency, go with the lower carbon. If you hate sharpening a blade, and it's intended for a lot of fine cutting, you want the higher carbon range. Higher carbon takes a finer edge, and stays sharper, longer, but can be more prone to snap under a high-stress situation. (Ever snap a drill?)

It's also a matter of what you're used to. Blades of 40 to 60 point steel have been made and used for centuries, with all of their limitations and advantages. It's an art, with a little bit of science (at least we know the carbon content that we start out with. Our ancestors had to do it empirically.

For sources in the 40-60 point range, most critical car parts (springs, shafting, axles) are perfectly useable, but once again, unless you get the manufacturer's specs, your back to empirical techniques.

Visit our National Parks: www.nps.gov

Go viking: www.wam.umd.edu/~eowyn/Longship/ (cASE sENSITIVE)

Visit our

Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Thursday, 01/13/00 13:19:51 GMT


If your in the Williamsburg, VA area this weekend, I'll be hanging out in the Huckster Room (not good enough for the Art Room [snif]) at MARSCON (http://www.angelfire.com/va/marscon/). This is a very laid-back science fiction and gaming convention. I'd go anyway, and most of my kids show up there with their friends. Gives me a chance to try the market. If you're in the area, drop in.

Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at us.HSAnet.net - Thursday, 01/13/00 16:34:29 GMT


John Nash: Got any of those neighbors that burn coal for heat? Problem is coal stinks sometimes. Gas forges are a way out of the stink BUT (big But!) tend to be noisy.. quietest I've ever seen/heard made as much noise as an industrial vac, and the loudest was simply un-real.. Hadda wear ear protectors. Way out for the close neighbor problem is to go charcoal. Briquettes will get you started, but before long you will want the real thing. You can find it.. Elks and other service clubs use it for cow roasts, fish fries and the like. This list and others feature fuel source lists. Does charcoal work? Yup.. been used for the past X thousands of years with great results. Can the neighbors complain? Nah, you just have a funny bbq. The anvil klang is another matter...

Uncle Goodcrank -- production_wheel at yahoo.com - Friday, 01/14/00 04:41:43 GMT


DON A. I was about to buy a cheapo auto-darkening welding helmet and a friend who knows welding said not to do so. He said buy a good name brand and mentioned Jackson. I got their Journeyman model for about $125 and have really enjoyed the difference it has made to a learner. No problems so far and I actually enjoy using my stick welder.

John L. -- lecount at mindspring.com - Saturday, 01/15/00 01:04:51 GMT


I get my fire screen from Phoenix wire cloth. phone (810)585-6350 You have the specs right. I called half a dozen companies from Thomas Register and these guys had the best price.

Lewis -- fciron at yahoo.com - Saturday, 01/15/00 15:36:58 GMT


Just curious if anyone out there has a trick for getting a large ring round. I've been making feed pan holders out of 3/4" round iron. It takes a chunk 57" long to get the right diameter, with enough left over to forge weld the ends. Right now, I'm jamming the rod through a tractor drawbar, and standing on the end to bend the darn things round enough to draw the ends up to where I can heat them and weld the ends together. Of course, I then have to heat the ring in sections to try and pound it close to round with out streching it out too large. I've got 32 more of these things to make, and I'm running out of ideas, coal, patience, and good humor. How does a fella turn out 17" rings in a hurry? (The high dollar machine shop in town couldn't figure it out, which is how I got the job.)

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Tuesday, 01/18/00 14:05:19 GMT


Just curious if anyone out there has a trick for getting a large ring round. I've been making feed pan holders out of 3/4" round iron. It takes a chunk 57" long to get the right diameter, with enough left over to forge weld the ends. Right now, I'm jamming the rod through a tractor drawbar, and standing on the end to bend the darn things round enough to draw the ends up to where I can heat them and weld the ends together. Of course, I then have to heat the ring in sections to try and pound it close to round with out streching it out too large. I've got 32 more of these things to make, and I'm running out of ideas, coal, patience, and good humor. How does a fella turn out 17" rings in a hurry? (The high dollar machine shop in town couldn't figure it out, which is how I got the job.)

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Tuesday, 01/18/00 14:05:41 GMT


Mike: Sounds like you need a pedestal rotary bender with about a 4 foot lever. Some pipe,bar and square tube can be put together easily enough to do the job cold. An old iron wheel,truck wheel with one rim cut off, big old lathe face plates,or pipe flange caps can be used to form around.If you are close to Iowa you are welcome to see how we do similar work. Good luck,Steve. millers at iowa-city.k12.ia.us

Steve Miller -- millers at iowacity.k12.ia.us - Wednesday, 01/19/00 02:22:52 GMT


Mike,
I would look at some pictures of benders in catalogs and see if you can steal an idea. Mine has been well wortht the day and a half I spent on it. For a one job tool I would bend a manageable piece of stock to just under the radius I want. Then weld it to a base plate with lots of braces and bend to is with large forks. After I weld it up I adjust the curve on the heel of the anvil with a big hammer.

Hope that's some help.

Lewis -- fciron at yahoo.com - Wednesday, 01/19/00 02:53:50 GMT


Hey Blacksmiths!!! Greetings from good old Germany to all the blacksmiths over the sea`s!
If anybody needs a good blacksmith for a few month, please mail me your address! I know a young man, who made his apprenticeship in our shop!.
Hope to hear from you soon!

Buy Andy and Flo

HafenAndy -- AHafen at gmx.de - Wednesday, 01/19/00 21:01:28 GMT


Help, Please!! I just found this page and see there has been some activity with Nazel 3B hammers. I have a 3B but the sow block and bottom die are missing. can anyone help me find parts or another hammer. Thanks Paul 517 224-0936

paul -- uretek.michigan at worldnet.att.net - Thursday, 01/20/00 03:13:13 GMT


I am a beginning blacksmith in SW Colorado. I have found some great info from the posts. I also have a good supply of Candle Pans if anyone needs some. These are 16 ga. 3-1/2 dia. inch with a 7/32 hole pre-punched. Price is $7.50 - 10, $15.00 - 25, $25.00 - 50. Shipping extra. Satisfaction or you money back.

Mike -- hotiron at fone.net - Thursday, 01/20/00 04:48:27 GMT


Paul, you could just as easy make a bottom die as you could a sow block. The most important thing is you have the anvil..

Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Friday, 01/21/00 21:26:47 GMT


FOR SALE- Kayne Power Hammer- Air hammer in new condition. Upgraded air cylinder to match the new 100 lb Old Blue. Several extra dies. Works great. $3200.oo/offer Frederick,MD

Doug McGiffin -- sdmcgiffin at erols.com - Saturday, 01/22/00 00:09:55 GMT


HELP: I AM IN NEED OF AN EXPERIENCED BLACKSMITH IN THE SAN FRANCISCO AREA TO REPAIR TWO BREAKS ON AN 18TH C. IRON BED.
PLEASE CONTACT ME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!

Dee -- accents at ix.netcom.com - Sunday, 01/23/00 02:01:57 GMT


I have an anvil that I was told was pre-mousehole(upon visual inspection at abana conf. '98, Ashville NC) who would be a good one to talk to about the period (age) and approximate value of this nice old piece? Thanks......AB

Armand -- armandanvil at hotmail.com - Sunday, 01/23/00 02:30:19 GMT


Armand,

If you can send me a couple of pictures via e-mail, as well as copying what information you can from the anvil, dimensions, any inscriptions or markings, I'll try and identify it for you.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 01/23/00 03:43:34 GMT


Anyone got any ideas for a piece of work to celebrate 100 years of blacksmithing in family on March 1st next.

P. J. conlan -- pjconlan at eircom.net - Sunday, 01/23/00 12:55:16 GMT


Anyone got any ideas for a piece of work to celebrate 100 years of blacksmithing in family on March 1st next.

P. J. conlan -- pjconlan at eircom.net - Sunday, 01/23/00 12:56:34 GMT


The Mighty Guru?, said to post my message here: I am looking for a 25lb Little Giant Hammer. Does anyone know how to reach Sid Sudemier? I heard he might be a resource. All help appreciated.

Knifemaker at Griffen Mountain Knifeworks

Knifemaker -- knfmkr at fullnet.net - Sunday, 01/23/00 17:37:13 GMT


P.J.: Sounds like an interesting project! How about an iron grandfather clock? Regards, Steve.

Steve -- millers at iowa-city.k12.ia.us - Sunday, 01/23/00 18:49:47 GMT


P.J. how about any piece that all or any members of the family could help complete. Possibly any parts fom members of family that have passed on to be incorparated into project? How about a Sign?

Mike -- sweanym1 at juno.com - Monday, 01/24/00 00:30:39 GMT


Hello to all the smiths!
As always, I am looking for all sorts of old hammers. Blacksmith hammers, farrier hammers, and also ball-peen hammers. I would buy all of your ball-peen hammers! The bigger the ball-peen, the better!
And also any other blacksmith tool or assessories that you have, I would be interested in.

Keep an eye out for any product manufactured by:
Riverdale Forge, that's me!

Ryan Wasson -- krw996s at mail.smsu.edu - Monday, 01/24/00 03:00:24 GMT


Knifemaker;
You can contact Sid Suedmeier at: Little Giant, 420 4th Corso, Nebraska City, NE. 68410, 402-873-6603. I buy my coal from him. There will be 2 Little Giant Power Hammer Rebuilding Seminars this year, taught by Fred Caylor at Sid's Shop, March 17-19, and March 24-26. The cost is $95. The Seminar takes a worn 25lb. hammer, completely rebuilds it, including pouring the babbit bearings, and repairing all parts. I figure the information on analyzing a hammer you are looking at to buy, and estimating repair costs, is easily worth the price of the course. The classes are limited to 25 people, and you had better wear work clothes. Last time I was up to Sid's, I think I spent 3 hours just looking over his anvil collection.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Monday, 01/24/00 16:56:32 GMT


Mike:
Appreciate the feedback, I'll contact Sid & see where it takes me.

Knifemaker, at Griffen Mountain Knifeworks in Oklahoma

Knifemaker -- Knfmkr at fullnet.net - Tuesday, 01/25/00 02:38:15 GMT


hello

R.J. -- rjstringer at yahoo.com - Tuesday, 01/25/00 05:28:50 GMT


I am pretty much a novice at metal working. I have no formal training but I have been tinkering and doing research when I can. My one big problem has been that I have no easy access to a supply of coal and little money to put towards it anyway. What I am using instead is charcoal that I make from whatever scraps of wood I can lay my hands on. So far I have had some good results and some humorous accidents (like melting the bottom out of my forge). What I would like to know is what is the most effective way to render wood into charcoal and what woods are best for making charcoal? If you have some advice or know of a good reference book please contact me.

Bill Stone -- w.stone at gte.net - Wednesday, 01/26/00 02:43:30 GMT


Hi Bill!

Didn't I just answer a question over on the Guru's page for you? (grin)

Hardwoods make the best charcoal for our purposes. The center stringers on most wooden pallets are either oak or maple.
Even southern pine makes fairly decent charcoal. Drop me a line in e-mail if you're interested, and I'll send you a set of plans for making a charcoal retort that was designed by the Kiwi blacksmith.
Andrew did a nice job on the plans, and the retort works well.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 01/26/00 04:35:16 GMT


Knifemaker etal. Our Power hammer Page has a listing of manufacturers and sales reps including Sid Sudemeier. If you are looking for them or have lost that note or can't find it in the archives its easier to find it somewhere on the appropriarte anvilfire page!

Jock D. AKA guru -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 01/27/00 17:32:22 GMT


Ok, VERY new to smithing. I am wondering how/where to get a gas forge or coal forge from. I have seen many posts about people building them, and would like to know where they got this information from. Any help for a new smith would be appreciated. Thanks

Derek -- dwuz2 at hotmail.com - Saturday, 01/29/00 06:22:00 GMT


Ok, VERY new to smithing. I am wondering how/where to get a gas forge or coal forge from. I have seen many posts about people building them, and would like to know where they got this information from. Any help for a new smith would be appreciated. Thanks

Derek -- dwuz2 at hotmail.com - Saturday, 01/29/00 06:22:40 GMT


Derek,
I'm no old timer at the trade but I built my own break drum forge. I'd learned the basics from a good friend who had built his forge from the bottom plate of a gas water heater. Mine is more or less the same pattern as one described by David Alloway in an article titled "Thirty Gallon Forge" in the magazine The Backwoodsman (July/August 1999). The only problem I had was how to attach my hand crank blower to the drum. What I ended up doing was buying a threaded plate normaly used to mount the uprights of hand rails to concrete steps. After I welded it in place I just shaped it with my grinder until my blower pipe fit over it. Hope this helps. Contact me if I can help.

Bill -- w.stone at gte.net - Saturday, 01/29/00 23:24:13 GMT


I am looking for an anvil 150# or so. i am in the north mississippi
area. contact via email

David -- david01 at network-one.com - Sunday, 01/30/00 01:21:23 GMT


Bill, Derek, there are plans for both on our plans page.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Sunday, 01/30/00 01:23:29 GMT


anyone know where i can get swage blocks?

David -- david01 at network-one.com - Sunday, 01/30/00 01:26:55 GMT


David;
Most of the vendors on the homepage carry swage blocks, or type "blacksmith" on the search line on eBay.com. I've got a nice big swage block I've had for years. The best use I've ever found for it, is to use it to stand on, (to get some extra "Ommph"), when I'm whacking or upsetting something big. It also makes a pretty good mud scraper. I suspect most blocks don't get used as much as mine. Happy shopping!

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Sunday, 01/30/00 04:11:05 GMT


David,

Listen to Mike, he's telling you the truth. (with a little bit of humour thrown in for good measure) :)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 01/30/00 06:31:31 GMT


Cone mandrils are another pricy item that dosen't get much use.Unless you get a real bargain or have more money than you know what to do with, spend it on other things

KID -- N/a - Monday, 01/31/00 01:13:29 GMT


Kid,

You're correct about the large cone mandrils. Lots of guys have one in the shop that they've never used. BUT, I've got a small one with a hardie shank on it that I use pretty regularly. I guess it depends on what you plan on doing.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 01/31/00 01:19:43 GMT


I'm looking for my local ABANA chapter. I found the web page but there is very little on it. Maybe my server isn't displaying it properly. I'm in Hardin County, KY about 45 minutes southwest of Louisville. Could anyone in the local chapter please drop me an e-mail and let me know where you have your meetings and what the dues are?

Bill -- w.stone at gte.net - Tuesday, 02/01/00 01:49:03 GMT


Millennium Calendars depicting the actual forge portrayed in Nobel prize winning poet Seamus Heaney's poem 'The Forge'(Door Into The Dark).

Calendars show traditional blacksmithing methods employed in rural Ireland, now sadly a dying art.

Cost (including postage and packaging):-

To UK £8.50 each
To USA $20 each
To Europe £9.00stg each
To Australia £11.00stg each

Payment by cheque/bank draft only:
Payable to Barney Devlin.

And forwarded to
Barney Devlin,
c/o 125 Ballynease Road,
Portglenone,
Co. Antrim,
N.I. BT44 8NU

Enquiries to the Email address below.

Kieran Devlin -- Kierandevlin at hotmail.com - Tuesday, 02/01/00 10:44:41 GMT


i have been doing blacksmithing for about a year now ihave 150 peter

tucker -- miketucker3 at hotmail - Wednesday, 02/02/00 00:36:44 GMT


Paw-Paw I too have a cone for my anvil, I use it all the time. The big floor modle sits in the corner getting used every other year if that much. Got it at a farm sale 15 yrs ago for $35.00. At least it looks good and impresses the visitors :0)..

kid -- kidbsmith at yahoo.com - Wednesday, 02/02/00 00:39:44 GMT


I have found a Murray brand #25 power hammer and was wondering if anyone knows where I can get info on this hammer and find out if any parts are available for it. Thanks in advance. Please use my email.
J.Walt

Walt -- walt054 at attgobel.net - Wednesday, 02/02/00 02:42:35 GMT


I have found a Murray brand #25 power hammer and was wondering if anyone knows where I can get info on this hammer and find out if any parts are available for it. Thanks in advance. Please use my email.
J.Walt

Walt -- walt054 at attgobel.net - Wednesday, 02/02/00 02:43:07 GMT


Kid,

If I find one for that price, I'll probably buy it. But I don't think I'll ever really have a use for it! (grin)

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Wednesday, 02/02/00 02:50:52 GMT


I am looking for a 4, 6 inch leg vice in good shape for sale. I am in the SW colorado area, but would pay freight for a good one. Thanks

Mike Smith -- hotiron at fone.net - Wednesday, 02/02/00 06:15:39 GMT


OK, The Meyer Brothers who designed the Little Giant were in business with the Moloch Company. During the depression they went their seperate ways and the Moloch company foundered and was bought by Murray who made the machines until the 40's or 50's then went out of business themselves and were bought by . . . Little Giant.

There are no parts other than what Sid Sudemeier might have from his Little Giant inventory.

CC. e-mail

Jock D. -- guru at anvilfire.com - Wednesday, 02/02/00 17:41:15 GMT


Hello Barney Devlin.

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Wednesday, 02/02/00 17:48:47 GMT


Sorry about the blank entry.. Lets try it again. Mr Devlin I am very interested in your calendars.Can you email me a price for them in Canadian Funds. I live in North Bay Canada and do Blacksmithing in the local area. Mainly during the summer months at farm shows etc.. Thanks...Barney

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Wednesday, 02/02/00 17:52:02 GMT


Sorry about the blank entry.. Lets try it again. Mr Devlin I am very interested in your calendars.Can you email me a price for them in Canadian Funds. I live in North Bay Canada and do Blacksmithing in the local area. Mainly during the summer months at farm shows etc.. Thanks...Barney

Barney -- barney at vianet.on.ca - Wednesday, 02/02/00 17:52:25 GMT


HELP!! We are restoring an historic BlackSmith Building in Berlin, MD and need some help with old artifacts, pictures, tools etc. This was the livery for the town over 100 years ago. Looking for an anvil, can be a fabrication, a huge yoke, old wagon wheels, etc. Please and thank you.

joyce landsman -- anafare at aol.com - Saturday, 02/05/00 13:55:35 GMT


Joyce,

Contact the Museum of Appalachia.

Museum of Appalachia
P. O. Box 1189,
Norris, Tennessee
37828

(423) 494-7680
(423) 494-0514
(423) 494-8957 (fax)

Talk to the Founder and Director, John Rice Irwin.
He will have everything you need.

Tell him that you were referred to him by Paw Paw Wilson. This year
at the Tennessee Fall Homecoming in October will be my 10th year demonstrating for him.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 02/05/00 17:38:29 GMT


I just baught a blacksmiths vice with five inch jaws for $90. It's made by Iron City. The stamp on it is a six pointed star with Iron City the middle. I'm wondering how old the vice is. Did I get a good deal? If so I think I know where another one is if anyone wants it.

Bill -- w.stone at gte.net - Saturday, 02/05/00 23:42:53 GMT


dose anybody have any plans on a treadle hammer ?

bh -- hutchinsonben at hotmail.com - Sunday, 02/06/00 16:18:54 GMT


I am presently researching blacksmiths hearths of the 15th century,all of the illustrations i have come across show the nozzles of the bellows entering the back of the hearth via a flattened conical nozzle,with a gap on the underside where it has not been fully closed.As there are no indications of any air tight connections i am ansure as to whether there would be a loss in air pressure or if there would be an organ pipe effect drawing in extra air.Does anyone have any views or experience of this?.

Wayne -- Pastlincs at aol.com - Sunday, 02/06/00 21:45:32 GMT


bh, Have you tried the plans page?

Bill -- w.stone at gte.net - Monday, 02/07/00 01:32:18 GMT


All,

For some reason, the URL that I've been keeping under blacksmithing supplies for rivets (http://www.jcrivets.com) is no longer working. Evidently the company no longer has a web site.

HOWEVER,

The following company also sells rivets, and seems to have an even better selection.

http://www.rjleahy.com/

Paw Paw Wilsonj -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Monday, 02/07/00 02:06:50 GMT


I have a good supply of 3-1/2 16 ga. candle pans, votive cup or candle pans, taper cups. I also custom cut to your specs on all of the above. If you are having trouble finding any of these email me. Phone # 970-882-4545, 882-3244.

Mike Smith -- hotiron at fone.net - Monday, 02/07/00 05:25:41 GMT


Bill: If the post vise is in good condition and is fairly complete, you got a pretty fair deal. I don't know the brand, but if it survived this long, it should be okay.

Wayne: The air gap may have served to increase the venturi effect, but it also has the advantage of preventing back draft on twin-bellows systems if the bellows get out of phase. Sucking in coals and superheated gas is not good for bellows, and it will sometimes happen with a continuous connection. Volume 10, page 11 of the NEWS shows a small Viking forge using the gap principle. When they switched to stacked bellows instead of twinned bellows, the constant pressure prevented the back-flow and a solid connection could be made. Progress marches on!

Cold and clear on the banks of the Potomac. The ice is finally breaking up on the inlets.

Atli

Bruce Blackistone (Atli) -- asylum at - Monday, 02/07/00 14:45:27 GMT


I have 2 Chambersburg steam hammers that I need to find a price for on the secondary market. They are 1940's vintage but have been rebuilt and are in storeage now. The 2 hammers are in excellent condition and the spare anvil is new and has never been used. I am asking for a reasonable $idea as to what I can charge for these 20,000 lb hammers with steam chest and assorted spare parts. Dan Cunning

Dan Cunning -- dcunning at tradeout.com - Monday, 02/07/00 23:05:21 GMT


Any advice for heat treating S7 punches?

Paul -- FarrierPFG at AOL.COM - Tuesday, 02/08/00 03:18:13 GMT


Paul, its an air hardening steel in small sections and oil hardening in large. Being air hardening means you can temper it at too a fairly high temperature. If the stock is annealed you may not want to harden the whole piece and leave the dtriking end soft.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Tuesday, 02/08/00 23:31:11 GMT


it at to a. . .. I gotta get more sleep. . .

Jock D. -- same - Tuesday, 02/08/00 23:32:52 GMT


Jock, I'll say, I seems like you need to get more sleep. Your starting to spell and sound like me.

Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Wednesday, 02/09/00 02:41:10 GMT


Found the airhammer site Paw Paw. Pays to read. Nice thing bout this new 'puter is I don't have to scoop coal into it like the old one. Sleep, what the hell is that? Boys, have you seen this site?
http://users.utu.fi/tejopa/bs/ This is a Finnish Smith. Interesting stuff.

regards

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Thursday, 02/10/00 03:59:16 GMT


Dan, I was hoping Bruce would contact you on those hammers :) Are these machines that WEIGH 20,000 or are they 10Ton hammers?

If they weigh 20,000 pounds they are probably 1,000 or 1,500 pound hammers. This was a very common 'small' hammer in industrial forging shops. These are the first size that is not considered a "tool dressing" or "maintainence" hammer. The problem is they are too big for general blacksmiths and too old and out of date for regular industry. Not much has actually changed on this type machine but OSHA regs call for a bunch of minor safety features that industry wants "factory installed". The result is that these old hammers are being scraped as fast as they can be replaced. . . Its a sad situation. I hate to see good machinery go to scrap but that is probably what is going to happen unless you export them to some developing country that is desparate for machinery.

In the past year I and and a few friends have bought a number of big hammers at less than scrap or give away prices. Generaly shipping is more than the machine. That is the curent status of the market.

Jock D. -- webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 02/10/00 04:11:39 GMT


Steve, I'll check it out. I've started posted links to overseas sites. Many can be translated on Altavista's Babelfish if you need to do more than look at the pictures or GUESS what is says. . . I don't know about Finnish.

Jock D. -- Webmaster at anvilfire.com - Thursday, 02/10/00 04:15:12 GMT


pls send email to me emiediatly

nadzri -- anak_itik at jelapang.com - Thursday, 02/10/00 15:39:47 GMT


Last fall I finished a weekend course on damascas steel, at Touchstone ,,,,My problem is where can I find a supplier for PURE nickel ? I have used up all that I had left from the class and really want to continue with this process. Hope someone can help me, Thanks.

Dave Stewart -- jeds at lcsys.net - Friday, 02/11/00 01:03:49 GMT


Can anyone help me with a simple, quick finish for hooks, candle holders and other items of that nature?

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Saturday, 02/12/00 15:44:38 GMT


Steve,

Here's a simple beeswax finish that works well for indoors.

Doug Merkel's Beeswax Finish
Interior Use Only


1 cup Johnson's Paste Wax
1 Cup Turpentine
1 Cup boiled Linseed oil
1 cup shaved beeswax
2 Tablespoons Japan Dryer (Art Supply Store)


Melt ingredients together
Mix throroughly
Apply to WARM (not hot!) iron
Wipe excess off with soft rag
Allow to dry

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Saturday, 02/12/00 20:01:19 GMT


pawpaw-- Thank you very much for the finish recipe.
Steve Stransky

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Sunday, 02/13/00 01:51:55 GMT


Steve,

No problem, helping each other out is what it all about.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at netunlimited.net - Sunday, 02/13/00 03:57:49 GMT


I have a Studebaker type Farm
(actual maker unknown to me)
Grain box horse drawn wagon to sell
I would like to know what would
be a good place on the web to
offer it for sale. Also I run
a free to use machinery buy and sell
web board that you might want to check out
Thanks Tom
Web adress here
http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb874451

Ttools -- ttools at ix.netcom.com - Sunday, 02/13/00 07:01:30 GMT


Tom;
Your Studebaker wagon was a good mid-range wagon, and commands a mid-range price, depending on amount of original paint, floor, sideboards, hardware, truck, tongue, which tailgate, etc, but the largest single price factor is the wheels and tires.
The best place I've found to sell or buy horse drawn equipment is the twice yearly sale at St. Joseph, MO. People from all over the world buy and sell. Last fall, there were several buyers from the former Soviet Union there. An estimated 10,000 people, and the same number of horses and mules over 3 days.
A quick and easy way to date your wagon is measure the wheel tread. Generally, 60" before 1920, 56" after. The model is determined by tire diameter, (front x rear), and tire width.
A wagon is named after the running gear, not the box manufacturer. It was common to put 2 brands together, especially if you had a good set of gears, and a worn out box. A matching gear and box bring the best money.
There were thousands of wagon builders, but the best names for the last 150 years start out: Weber, Sterling, Keystone, with Studebaker in the top 10. I would expect a good Studebaker to bring around $1000. I've seen average John Deere wagons bring $50, and saw a nicely restored 8' Webber with a box tight enough to haul flax seed bring $52,500.
The best thing you can do to increase the value of your wagon for sale is add a wagon seat.
The worst things you can do, is epoxy the wheels to hide the dry rot, or repaint the wagon.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Monday, 02/14/00 16:33:37 GMT


Tom;
Your Studebaker wagon was a good mid-range wagon, and commands a mid-range price, depending on amount of original paint, floor, sideboards, hardware, truck, tongue, which tailgate, etc, but the largest single price factor is the wheels and tires.
The best place I've found to sell or buy horse drawn equipment is the twice yearly sale at St. Joseph, MO. People from all over the world buy and sell. Last fall, there were several buyers from the former Soviet Union there. An estimated 10,000 people, and the same number of horses and mules over 3 days.
A quick and easy way to date your wagon is measure the wheel tread. Generally, 60" before 1920, 56" after. The model is determined by tire diameter, (front x rear), and tire width.
A wagon is named after the running gear, not the box manufacturer. It was common to put 2 brands together, especially if you had a good set of gears, and a worn out box. A matching gear and box bring the best money.
There were thousands of wagon builders, but the best names for the last 150 years start out: Weber, Sterling, Keystone, with Studebaker in the top 10. I would expect a good Studebaker to bring around $1000. I've seen average John Deere wagons bring $50, and saw a nicely restored 8' Webber with a box tight enough to haul flax seed bring $52,500.
The best thing you can do to increase the value of your wagon for sale is add a wagon seat.
The worst things you can do, is epoxy the wheels to hide the dry rot, or repaint the wagon.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Monday, 02/14/00 16:34:01 GMT


Thanks Mike thats a lot of info.
Iam just not sure of the maker
it just looks like a Study
I just bought a old farm and the wagon
has been in the barn since the 30s
Its paint is fadeded and I will
have to get a closer look at
the condition. It is a very heavy
chasis and wheels. It is in a very
dry climate. It has a full witdh double
spring bench seat. The box is a faded green
with yellow chasis. May or may not
be orginal paint.I have heard that the makers
name may be found on the rear axel middle section.
Is located in NE WA state wheat country.
Thanks Tom

Tom -- ttools at ix.netcom.com - Monday, 02/14/00 22:58:00 GMT


Mike, Is a scoop board endgate on a wagon better than the hinged in the middle kind. you seem to know your wagons. Thanks

KID -- yep - Tuesday, 02/15/00 01:00:31 GMT


looking for anvils extra small or extra large gd cond. haybudden,peterwrightetc...have anvils and antique tools to trade or for sale........contact me,,if you have....d.gazaille at earthlink.net or anvilman at yahoo.com

dgazaille -- dgazaille at earthlink.net - Tuesday, 02/15/00 02:14:36 GMT


Kid;
A scoop beats a full house or a split board, unless you need it to dry a big beaver pelt.

Tom;
Try the middle of the rear axle on both sides. Spray some WD-40 on it, and sometimes the letters jump out at you. The best protected spot on the wagon is the back of the fifth wheel, that's where you look for the paint scheme and pinstripe pattern. The skein will often have a casting name in it. You have to pull the wheels to grease them right anyway, so that may give you a clue. I cast 2 skeins once. Never again.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Tuesday, 02/15/00 02:36:58 GMT


Hey Mike Thanks for the info
will be at the wagon about
Sat and will look and take
some measurments. I just
dont anything about wagons
Right now it is just sitting
in the barn and is filled
with old blacksmith
tools and equipment. Used to
be a shop in the town but the
town disapeared with the comming
of the auto, and they closed
the RR station in the depresion.
There is a lot of old Black Smith
items in the barn. Just havent had time
to look at it all yet. I think
that there is an old steam engine
with a generator there too. Must
be 20 or 30 tons of the old stuff.
I sure got a big job cleaning it up.
Thanks Tom

Tom -- ttools at ix.netcom.com - Tuesday, 02/15/00 03:21:43 GMT


Tom Where's this barn located, and what time does it get dark there...

kid -- xx - Tuesday, 02/15/00 03:25:12 GMT


In the winter it gets dark at 4:30pm In the summer
about 10:30 pm . But finding in the dark is almost
impossible. The second time I went over to my farm
I was running real late and couldnt find it in the
dark and had to sleep in the truck til daylite then
find it. The nearest store is 10 miles and nearest
town 20 miles and 75 miles to a city. The rest is
just wheat fields that extend for 40 or 50 miles
and miles of sage brush. No road markers as addresses
were issued just 3 months ago. Some local folks
told me that the orgianl owner of that farm also
run the black smith shop in the little town and
brought in the first electricity there. I got the
farm real cheap as it is small by local standards
and the last guy that owned it wife left with the
kids, she couldn't stand being in the middle of
nowhere. It does have a good house. The attic if
full, 100's of old 19th centry metal working books. And
bound supplier catalogs of the day. I brought a real neat
one back to my current home it is called The Making
Shaping of and Treating of Steel By Carnegie Steel
and published by their Bureau of Instruction and is
1100 pages covering every aspect of forming steel.
Has the best info on coal and coke I ever seen.
Just so much stuff, all that has laid there for 75 years
I just cant belive the guy packed so much home. By
the way I found the place listed for sale on a BBS
on the Internet. I dont want to say how cheap I bought
but the full price was less than 3 months wages
Tom

Tom -- ttools at ix.netcom.com - Tuesday, 02/15/00 05:06:14 GMT


So tom, whatcha gonna do with the tools?

Steve O'Grady -- lforge at netins.net - Tuesday, 02/15/00 08:21:15 GMT


HI Steve O
Some Ill keep some Ill sell. But I have to sort
it all out first and that is going to take a while.
I didnt mean to entice everybody, I just want to sell
the wagon for a fair price. I dont want it and it is in
the way for clean up. There still 3 old 1930s trucks in there
too & an old tractor. Those may run. When I have stuff to
sell I will post a notice here and list it on my Machinery
for sale board its here on the web. If you want to buy
or sell items also in the mean time you are all welcome
to use my Machinery for sale board its free to use to
everyone.

Here is the board
http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb874451

Tom -- ttools at ix.netcom.com - Tuesday, 02/15/00 16:27:33 GMT


hi

bob - Wednesday, 02/16/00 14:57:43 GMT


I just moved to northern washington and I was wondering if anyone knows of a supplier of good smithing coal. I checked the coal scuttle and the only one selling smithing coal is in the seattle area. I am near bellingham. Thanks for the help

cwith -- craigwithrow at megpartridge.com - Thursday, 02/17/00 01:39:49 GMT


I joined BonivilleForge just over a year ago to learn blacksmithing, and have enjoyed all of the meetings I have been able to attend. I have started to collect a few tools and bought an anvil. During the month of December i built and gas forge using about twenty inches of an old hot water heater. I layed it on its side and lined the inside with fire brick cut at about an 11 degree angle to lock them all in. the gas gomes in through the side through a one and a half inch pipe which has a flame holder built into the end. At the elbow the gas comes in through a .060 orfis mixing with the air from the blower. This seems to work quite well but seems to be a bit on the large side.
Two weeks ago I made my first pare of tongs with the coaching of a friend, as they where practice i made them using quarter inch mild steel. I want to forge knives but feel that I need to make more tools first. At the one meeting we did some forge welding which I enjoyed and wand to get a coal forge going now as I liked the atmosphere using it. slso the fact that you donot have that hot air hearing up the part of the steel you do not want heated. Sorry about rambleing on so. I am looking for a post vise at a rasonable price. look forward to hearing from some of you good people. Dan

Dan T. Heiner -- dtctheiner at juno.com - Thursday, 02/17/00 02:09:59 GMT


Dan;
It seems like everyone has caught on to how good a post vice is, and the price is getting out of hand. I've never spent over $15 for one, but last weekend, I saw a junker bring $50 at a sale. You'll have to figure out what's reasonable to you.
I make a lot of knives out of rail road spikes. The rail road runs right through the middle of my farm, so it's easy to pick up a bucket full. Knifemakers look down their collective noses at them, but they're good high carbon steel, and a handy size for making hardie tools, jaws, chisels, & punches. Except for the walking, you can't beat the price.
The best tool for quickly streching them out, is a bottom fuller. I made one out of a hardie cut-off that broke. Welded on a piece of 1/2" rod, and then heat treated by cooking in a pot of molten lead for 20 minutes. It seems to be the perfect size for me to draw out a billet. Somewhere around here I've got a factory made job that rounds out to about 3/8". Don't have a clue what it's good for. I use my homemade fuller, the hammer to spread it out, and then smack it with a flatter and hammer to smooth it. They heat treat real well, and I've got a bad habit of testing the point by driving it into the side of the anvil with a hammer. I get $25 apiece for them as fast as I can make them, but it's a boring job to polish them up for the buyers. It's probably the only "artsy" thing I do. Mostly I pound out farm related items and repairs.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Thursday, 02/17/00 21:33:58 GMT


PawPaw;
I got your pictures, and then our ISP konked out. Came to the house for a bite, and found it back up. I printed it out to scale, and will have a go at it tonight. The missus has a board meeting and the guesser says 6" of snow, so I should have the house to myself to work on it. I'll send it back as soon as the mail server goes back up.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Thursday, 02/17/00 22:46:04 GMT


Dan,

If you can get hooked up with your local ABANA chapter, you might find a vise through that avenue.

Mike,

Appreciate the help. Trying to figure what I'll have to buy, where to buy it, how much it's going to cost, or whether everything is going to have to be hand made, and how much THAT will cost.... Little bit out of my field.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Thursday, 02/17/00 23:25:03 GMT


Hi ya room !

Roan -- boone at ris.net - Saturday, 02/19/00 03:42:04 GMT


I need an anvil 100-200+ lbs. I am in Colorado. Anyone have one for sale ?

Roan -- boone at ris.net - Saturday, 02/19/00 05:36:34 GMT


I need an anvil 100-200+ lbs. I am in Colorado. Anyone have one for sale ?

Roan -- boone at ris.net - Saturday, 02/19/00 05:42:34 GMT


To all: If anyone is looking for a serious hammer check out the Beaudry we have listed here on the Power Hammer Page.

Bruce R. Wallace -- Walmetalwk at aol.com - Saturday, 02/19/00 14:18:07 GMT


E-bay has a Samuel Yellin hardware collection up for bid, time left 4 days, 21 hrs over 100 items, some signed. Item #263105107

SteveA -- allingjan at yahoo.com - Saturday, 02/19/00 16:59:26 GMT


does anyone have the address to Little Giant?

Clair -- shadow1 at pcpros.net - Saturday, 02/19/00 20:22:17 GMT


I'm a welder/fabricator from North Carolina,just dropping in to say hello.I am very interested in blacksmithing and would like to expirement with art.Anyone with any information on the best way to start out,would be greatly appreciated. Alan

NCMTN -- NCSUN67 at HOTMAIL.COM - Sunday, 02/20/00 14:36:34 GMT


Alan,

On this web site, go the the guru's page and click on the "Getting Started" link at the top of the page. Read that for a beginning.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Sunday, 02/20/00 21:46:31 GMT


Would like some info on tempering

Mack Colvin -- inspect at ruston.org - Monday, 02/21/00 22:24:21 GMT


Bruce, what does a 250# Beaudry go for?

Ralph -- ralphd at jps.net - Monday, 02/21/00 23:23:35 GMT


For Sale 55 acre farm - 6 bedroom house- 2 bedroom apt - 30'x 40' blacksmith shop w/forges - many out buildings including 40'x 60' steel building - Frederick Maryland contact 301-898-3400 for details

Dave Ferguson -- mintvale at aol.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 00:18:15 GMT


I have a chance to demonstrate at a local Renaissance Fair this summer. I really don't know much about Medieval blacksmithing. Can anyone out there help me with some referance material?

Steve Stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 02:51:39 GMT


Mack,

Suggest you ask your tempering question over on the Guru's page.

Steve,

Save advice for you, but with the additional note that you might wan to direct your question to Bruce Blackistone, (Atli).

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 04:02:23 GMT


Steve Stransky, i do medieval living history with a particular interest in blacksmithing,if you let me have your postal address i can sent you some info.

Wayne Cooper -- Pastlincs at aol.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 16:28:15 GMT


Steve Stransky, i do medieval living history with a particular interest in blacksmithing,if you let me have your postal address i can sent you some info.

Wayne Cooper -- Pastlincs at aol.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 16:31:35 GMT


Steve , i do medieval living history with a particular interest in blacksmithing,if you let me have your postal address i can sent you some info.
Wayne cooper

steve stransky -- Slstransky at cs.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 16:34:22 GMT


howdy from that mythical state of Jefferson
I've heard that every man has a scheme that wont work, I'm wondering about a flat forge with a side draft which would enable someone to stack fire brick and build any shape of fire that was needed. comments critics plans ideas appreciated.Thanx Rick

Rick -- georgeforge at hotmail.com - Tuesday, 02/22/00 23:48:19 GMT


Attention Blacksmiths I would like to announce that the I.N.B.A.[inland northwest blacksmiths asc.]has a new president David Roeder of Richland Wa. I would like to announce that the I.N.B.A. will be haveing a demo at Ranch&Home in Pasco Wa. on April 15 if any body will be in the area and would like to attend please let me know by e-mail thankyou David Roeder

David Roeder -- hotforge at mailcity.com - Wednesday, 02/23/00 00:48:08 GMT


Rick,

Assuming the proper relationship between the side draft opening in the hood, and the flat part of the forge, I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work. If you do build one, how about a picture and a rport on how it works for the anvilfire plans page?

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Wednesday, 02/23/00 03:21:02 GMT


I'm looking for some more recent information concerning the construction of air-hammers. I have the Kenyon plans from ABANA, but have noticed references for improvements. Is there a web site for that info? I'd rather not cruise thru a years worth of archives in vain.

Greg Anderson -- manarm at thuntek.net - Friday, 02/25/00 04:11:09 GMT


Greg:
A couple of places you might want to look at are Larry Zoeller's webpage at http://users.ntr.net/~zman59/hammer.htm and the new and improved air system at the Alabama Forge Council webpage at
http://www.bham.net/afc/techniques/controls.html. I used both of these resource along with the ABANA plans to build my hammer.

Phil -- rosche at dogbert.aticorp.org - Friday, 02/25/00 15:30:50 GMT


Phil,

Thanks for the links. Larry's hammer looks to be very close to what I want to make. Does anyone know of an airhammer in the Albuquerque/Sante Fe area?

Greg -- manarm at thuntek.net - Saturday, 02/26/00 00:53:32 GMT


need to find a Fly press,

Bill Epps -- B-Epps at besmithy.com - Sunday, 02/27/00 05:29:49 GMT


NEW CUTTING TORCH TECHNOLOGY uses Gasoline for Fuel, Cuts steel up
to 14 inch thick!

This new cutting torch technology uses plain old gasoline for fuel! That's right plain old regular gasoline, 2.5 gals of gas that about $4.00 at today's price will cut as much steel and up to 14 inch thick as $70.00 worth of acetylene. And will make much cleaner cut without the ugly slag.

You can find out more about this NEW torch here

http://www.InsideTheWeb.com/mbs.cgi/mb874451

PS Iam not selling this item just posting here to share this information
you would have to contact the sellers

Tom -- Ttools at ix.netcom.com - Sunday, 02/27/00 05:51:00 GMT


Tom;
I checked out the petrogen torch web site. Any idea what they sell for? I get kinda suspicious when they put up an 8 page site, but want your home address before they'll give a fella a dollar figure.

Mike -- WCFarm at parod.com - Monday, 02/28/00 03:21:16 GMT


howdy folx
thanx so much for the tip from pawpaw. just got back from a jefferson smiths hammer-in at weaverville ca. spoke to several people about forges and powerhammers in addition to seeing how damascus blades are made great people great fun and as usual more ideas than time. yes when I get all the bugs worked out of a forge i'll send you a set of plans thanx again rick

Rick -- georgeforge at hotmail.com - Monday, 02/28/00 06:35:53 GMT


Rick,

No problem, that's why we're here, to help each other out.

Paw Paw Wilson -- pawpaw at paw-paws-forge.com - Monday, 02/28/00 23:51:41 GMT



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